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Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andy Weinmann & DJ Shalvey, 05July2013
Page Views: 962 total, 18/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

From the Lost and Found Ledge, climb the steep face using thin holds and clip the first bolt. Stick the first difficult move and then gain the jug on the right. Mantle up on the jug and reach high for a rail (crux) to gain a good stance at the 2nd bolt. Move up and left to gain the large flake (yes, it's hollow but not going anywhere) and your first pro (at the base of the flake...makes you feel better but best not to fall on this piece). Up the flake to a good ledge. Move out left (passing a chunky block that won't come out) and up to stand on a huge, blocky flake. Climb the corner/arete and face on your right, passing an old pin or two and then some small but dirty ledges (getting cleaner with traffic) that get easier as you go. Finish up to Lower Broadway Ledge and a two-bolt anchor.

You can rap from the two-bolt anchor and then from a super-thread at the base of Touch And Go. The 2nd rap goes over Lost And Found (5.7?) and will get you to the ground.

This climb was done ground-up, with both bolts drilled on lead from hooks. There are two bolts for the lower section; the rest of the climb is on gear.

Location

Three ways to get there:
1.) Climb Lost and Found
2.) Walk north on Lower Broadway Ledge to the Lower Broadway Chimney. Make an exposed move around the corner to stay on Lower Broadway Ledge. Follow the ledge past two small pine trees and locate the two-bolt rap anchor. The rappel will put you at the base of Touch and Go.

3.) Climb the first pitch of Backstage Pass (a 5.7 mixed line below Lower Broadway that starts around the corner from Worrell's Thicket about 25-30' up the hill...there are three bolts total on the face above). At the top of the pitch, continue scrambling north along the base on the ledge system, passing a large pine tree on the right with dozens of woodpecker holes in it. The start is about 20' past this tree.

Walkoff from Lower Broadway Ledge, rap from Bee Sting Corner or rap back down to the base of Touch and Go and then one more rap off the tree there at the base (no established anchor there yet), staying left of the large tree on the ledge below.

Protection

Two bolts then small cams and nuts. Brass helpful. Nothing bigger than an #2 BD Cam (gold) (save that #2 for the belay!).

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