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Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Cecil, Nick Sisk - 1990s
Page Views: 68 total · 2/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Nov 12, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

From the pine tree belay mentioned in the Location section, climb up the somewhat licheny face, plugging pro as needed and aiming for a blocky stance near the first bolt. Move up the face to the second bolt on crimps, good edges and sometimes seemingly questionable holds; use the left corner arete as needed. Gain a stance below the third bolt and weigh up the crux. Climb up the face, clip the last bolt and cruise past a few 10ish moves using a fingerlock and more interesting holds that seem questionable but are surprisingly good. Pull up to a small ledge (again, questionable finishing holds) and either continue up to Lower Broadway Ledge or set gear on long slings and traverse to the ledge on the far left and the S&M cold-shut anchors.

I found this climb to be an interesting change-up for the SE Corner and Seneca in general. Steep face climbing on some rather interesting and seemingly questionable holds that (as far as my experience went) really are just fine.

Location

This is on the face to the right of R&R's second pitch corner. I think it's best to scramble up Worrel's Thicket (5.0) to a good pine and a stance near the base of the corner.

Alternatively, climb R&R up to this point.

You can top out onto Lower Broadway Ledge. Alternatively, once past the crux you can traverse (set pro with long runners) to the left, over the top of the end of R&R to the cold shut anchors on the ledge atop S&M. From here you can rap to the base in two rappels (2nd set of cold shuts located at the end of R&R's P1).

Protection

3 bolts plus gear placements. Finger-sized cams and small-medium nuts. No anchor at the top unless you traverse to the far left cold-shuts atop S&M.

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