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Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andy Weinmann and DJ Shalvey - 09NOV2013
Page Views: 661 total · 13/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Nov 12, 2013
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Begin as for Touch And Go. Climb Touch And Go through its crux and clip the 2nd bolt with a long runner. Move up underneath the flake to a good stance with a left sidepull. Make a long reach right to a crack and solid finger-lock that you can't see. Step all the way out right, get gear and climb the crack and flake up to a good ledge. Climb the face above on thin crimps and edges past two bolts and gear placements. Finish up to the top on easy ledges to a two-bolt anchor.

Rap back off, walk-off Lower Broadway or head up to Upper Broadway by walking along the ledge to climber's right; this leads to the easy ledge system near the Upper Broadway Chimney.

Location

Same as for Touch And Go. Easiest to rap in from Lower Broadway Ledge, just beyond the Lower Broadway Chimney.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 1" (emphasis on C3s, TCUs, etc) - PG rating for the moves up and out past the 2nd bolt. Two-bolt rap anchor at the top.

Photos

Had the pleasure of climbing this with the first ascensionists the day after it was completed. Sweet route. Harder than what I normally climb so I can't honestly give it a grade, but 10+ sounds about right to me. Very cool moves through the lower half lead to some thin face climbing higher up. Definitely a worthwhile climb if your into mixed bolt/gear routes. Nov 16, 2013