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Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Tom Cecil and Co.
Page Views: 1,148 total · 16/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Jun 4, 2012
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Move up to a good stance at the left facing corner (crux - harder if you use the pockets/cracks on the face). Pull moves up to another good stance below the bulging rock. Move up past 3 bolts to some easier ground. Trend right and up past a gear placement or two and up to the last bolt (extended draw helpful). Move right from the bolt and up to overhanging, left-facing corner. Climb the face/corner up to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and belay.

Great link-up to Bee Sting Corner.

You could also step left on the ledge before the 4th bolt to a two-bolt anchor that's pretty much at the start of Dufty's Popoff. Makes for another nice link-up.

Location

Start is about 20-25 feet right of the start of Skyline Traverse, just behind a small tree. Look for a small left facing corner and thin cracks/pockets on the face.

Descend from the rap/belay station at the top of the pitch or continue up Bee Sting Corner or Kauffman-Cardon.

Protection

4 bolts plus gear placements. Ends at the Kauffman-Cardon rap/belay anchor.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
 
Kevin,

For sure on using C3s there (probably didn't have them a few years ago when I created this entry). I think I've gotten a good nut to there too...just had to be creative. An attentive belayer there would be very good :-)

-Andy Sep 21, 2015
Andy,

I found I could protect those low spicy moves (crux) with a C3, I believe a red C3 in one of the cracks on the outside right of the block. It even sinks in so that you can still use that crack up to finger tips. Aug 26, 2015
Frogmen83
  5.9
Frogmen83  
  5.9
I agree with Andy's rating of the route. Definitely first move or two is the crux. Took me a few minutes to find the small cam placement to the right. Great link up with Dufty's Popoff! Oct 20, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
 
A note on the grade...I put 5.9 based on input from some of the guides I talked to and my own experience. The first few unprotected moves off the deck are spicy and definitely the crux. It felt like a V1 boulder problem and then a 5.8ish climb the rest of the way.

Watch for loose rock in the middle section and at the top if you move right when you pull out of the left-facing corner...there is a loose block there and part of it broke off back in early 2012. Jun 4, 2012

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