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Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Cecil and Matt McGovern (mid-2000s)
Page Views: 747 total, 12/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 9, 2012
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Start is the same as for T&T (a much older route than this). From the large tree near the wall at the base of Worrell's Thicket, boulder up some unprotected moves to a good stance. You can get some thin gear here if you want. Step up and move right to the first bolt. Continue following the bolt line (gear placements as necessary between bolts).

At the two-bolt anchor you can either stop there and rap/lower or continue up to merge with T&T after a few moves up and left. From there it's pretty easy to reach the Kaufmann-Cardon ledge and move back right on the ledge to the T&T cold shuts. Finish on T&T.

In the event you need to rap after reaching the T&T shuts, you'll need to rap down to the Don't Think Twice anchor and then rap to the ground from there.

This route is sometimes used by the guides as a top-rope.

Location

At the base of Worrell's Thicket, locate two lines of bolts on the main wall. The bolted line on the right is Don't Think Twice (left line is T&T). You can see the two-bolt anchor with some red webbing (as of 08OCT2012) high up on the face. You can use the large tree to anchor your belayer.

Either rap/lower off the anchor or continue up on another route. It's pretty easy to step left and continue up on T&T.

Protection

Bolts (6 or 7?) plus some gear placements.

Two-bolt rap anchor at the end of the pitch.

Photos

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Frogmen83
  5.8
Frogmen83  
  5.8
A great 2 pitch unknown (not in current book) sport (mixed 1 cam) warm up route to get to Lower Broadway ledge. First pitch 5.7 run it all the way past first hanging bolt anchors to Kauffman ledge where there is a 2 bolt belay and nice ledge. The second pitch is 5.8, 3 bolts and a small cam if you don't want to run it out to the first bolt. The 5.8 move(s) is definitely under the flake and your well protected there after clipping the bolt. Oct 20, 2014
Dan Mathews  
5.7+
This is a fun face climb with lots of incut holds. The bolt spacing keeps your attention in places.

Definitely bring a #2 camalot (bomber placement) for protecting the last few moves before the belay. Otherwise you are probably 20' above a bolt when you pull the little roof/left facing corner, which seemed to be the hardest moves of the climb.

I didn't see any good options for supplementing the bolts, except for the camalot described above, so I didn't place any. Some of the bolts are very close together, and others are not.

Thanks to Andy for adding this route and the other beta on SE corner routes. I wish I looked at MP before going out yesterday as it is a little confusing figuring out what all the bolted lines are. Oct 24, 2012