Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Cecil & Todd Offenbach (late '90s)
Page Views: 840 total, 17/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I copied this over (and edited the incorrect information) from the posting on the South End...it's not on the South End at all. Smack dab in the middle of the SE Corner.

P1: Climb the face with many really positive holds past many bolts. About 20 ft below the Kauffman Cardon Ledge, there's a set of shuts. To do the entire route, skip these shuts and head up and right, up a left-leaning crack system to reach a stance on Kauffman-Cardon. Move further right about 5-10 ft and find the coldshuts on Kauffman Cardon...these are NOT the ring-anchors to the left of Bee Sting Corner but a set of coldshut anchors located about 1/3 of the way through K-C's 2nd pitch. A piece or two may be needed here in the last 20 ft to reach the ledge. Aim for about 10 ft right of the pine tree on the K-C Ledge. If you just climb to the first set of shuts, it's a sport route and probably easier than 5.9.

P2: Continue up the face slightly to the left of the belay. A piece or two of gear can be placed before the first bolt. From the bolt, aim for the small overhang, pass 2 more bolts, and climb to the top. Crux is near the overhang.

Location

Locate the ramp system 40 ft uphill from the start of Skyline Traverse, this ramp system marks the start of Worrell's Thicket. The big corner left of Worrell's is R&R. On the main wall you'll find two bolted lines. The right line is Don't Think Twice (5.7...goes up to a red-webbing anchor). The left line is T&T. Further left is the blocky corner of H&H (5.7R).

Protection

Bolts, a few pieces of gear. Shuts at top of Pitch 1; belay from tree at the top of Pitch 2 (Lower Broadway Ledge). Rap from fixed anchors above Bee Sting Corner about 30 ft to the left of the finish or walkoff on Lower Broadway.

Photos

- No Photos -
I'd second the P1 route description. It' a sport climb to the interim 2 bolt anchor, but it is a mixed climb above that to the Kaufmann ledge and beyond. You have some very long runouts if you just clip bolts above that first two bolt anchor. While it may not be 5.9 by Seneca standards it would be most anywhere else. Nov 18, 2014
Frogmen83
  5.7
Frogmen83  
  5.7
This climb can be climbed in 1,2, or 3 pitches. If you want to set up a tr climb to the first set of bolts (5.7) above a small pine tree. I like to do it in 1 long pitch past the first set of anchors, follow a few more bolts (5.7) then end up on the Kauffman ledge merging with Don't Think Twice. The last pitch is really Don't Think Twice 5.8. Fun route! Oct 20, 2014
Andrew J 133
Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Andrew J 133   Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Fun route, first pitch goes at about 5.7+ ish with some spacey bolts, can supplement with small cams, second pitch is the harder one, not quite seneca 5.9 in my opinion, prob more 5.8ish, definitely more heady with some distance to the first bolt, although you can find a good small cam placement before that. Apr 7, 2014