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Routes in Southeast Corner

A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Backstage Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R&R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Worrell's Thicket T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Art Gran, Bob Dufty, 1959
Page Views: 3,031 total, 39/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 29, 2011 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

From the end of P1 of Skyline Traverse, move up and right onto the east face and locate some old pins. Climb past an old pin and gain the small, blocky ledges. Move up and right to the prominent left-facing inside corner. Climb the corner to a point where you can step left onto the face, just below the overhang. Move up, place pro, pull the overhang on the right side, and move up to a small ledge (get pro here). Climb the face to the top (5.4 climbing on the face...pro is possible but you have to hunt for it!).

You'll top out on Lower Broadway Ledge. Bee Sting Corner rap rings will be about 25 feet to your right. From here with a 60m rope you can rap down to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and another set of rap rings. From the K-C rings, rap down to a third set of rings about 20' down and to climbers left or to a set of rings close to the tree below Dufty's Popoff. Either of these last two sets will get you to the base.

Caution! From the shuts on Kauffman-Cardon ledge rapping with 60m rope will be really close to reaching the ground. Be sure to tie knots in the ends and rap on climber's left of the left-facing corner below the K-C anchors.

Two 60m ropes tied together will hit the base from Bee Sting Corner.

Alternatively, you can scramble up and over the rocks that will be directly in front of you (west) when topping out Dufty's Popoff or Bee Sting Corner (to the left when you top out on Skyline Traverse). On the other side of these you can walk around to Luncheon Ledge and then either walk all the way down the Stairmaster or to the top of Ecstasy Junior and rap down from there.

Location

Start on top of the block to the right of the Skyline Traverse ledge (top of P1 of Skyline Traverse). There's a large block here you can sling as an anchor or if it's not a busy day, just use the shuts at the top of Skyline's P1.

A good alternative is to climb Ladybug (5.9) or The Tomato That Ate Cleveland (5.9) and finish either of those at a set of rap-rings just below the Dufty's Popoff corner.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack. Nice spot for a #3 Cam once you've pulled the roof. A few other pockets up there will take a pink or red tri-cam or equivalent sized cams.

Photos

Torren
Newark, DE
Torren   Newark, DE
The rock quality in the initial corner is pretty poor. The whole arete on the right is slowly crumbling away. Make sure to be careful when placing pro and stemming. Feb 21, 2017
Frogmen83
  5.7
Frogmen83  
  5.7
Awesome route, go do it!
I thought the route was "G" rated and found some great small cam placements above the roof that I felt confident they could hold a fall, although the climbing there was easy. Oct 20, 2014
I just led this for the 2nd time this past Saturday. The climbing above the roof is about 5.4-5.5. You can find a few placements if you look hard enough, but I doubt that any gear would hold a fall, anyway. Your belayer will not see you over the roof, so just let them give you rope and climb it. It's not hard-just keep a cool head. There are new rap bolts installed, so that you can descend from Broadway Ledge (where Duftys tops out) with a 60m rope and three raps. I give it a 5.7, because it's Seneca, and it's supposed to be hard. It was first done in 1959, so get your head on right, and climb like the strong men of days gone by! Sep 9, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.7+ PG13
K Baumgartner  
  5.7+ PG13
Sustained 5.7 Seneca climbing past the roof. From the Traverse shuts, move right into the left facing corner and stay in it all the way to the roof. Make sure to extend below the roof or you'll face severe drag. Roof is a bit sequency but once you find it, let it all ride out. Oct 1, 2012
BSU_Zac
  5.7+ PG13
BSU_Zac  
  5.7+ PG13
"Is this for real?" Was the first thought in my head while leading up to the roof. It is outstandingly amazing and not enough people choose to get on it. We didn't bother using the block as an anchor and just used the anchors for skyline and worked fine. Bring plenty of slings to extend under the roof. I managed to get marginal gear before the runout section at the top which is still really fun climbing that is more sequential than a lot of other easy sections in seneca. You can also get a yellow tcu at the top to protect the top out. Sep 5, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
 
The most recent guidebook puts it at 5.7. I used to think maybe it was worth a "+" but it's really just a very consistent 5.7. The pro above the roof is better than most people think...stay a bit right after pulling it and you'll be fine. Awesome route and is fantastic when linked with any of Ye Gods and Little Fishes (5.8), The Tomato That Ate Cleveland (5.9) or Ladybug (5.9). Aug 29, 2011