Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Art Gran, Bob Dufty, 1959
Page Views: 4,921 total · 40/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 29, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Andy Weinmann

You & This Route


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Description

From the end of P1 of Skyline Traverse, move up and right onto the east face and locate some old pins. Climb past an old pin and gain the small, blocky ledges. Move up and right to the prominent left-facing inside corner. Climb the corner to a point where you can step left onto the face, just below the overhang. Move up, place pro, pull the overhang on the right side, and move up to a small ledge (get pro here). Climb the face to the top (5.4 climbing on the face...pro is possible but you have to hunt for it!).

You'll top out on Lower Broadway Ledge. Bee Sting Corner rap rings will be about 25 feet to your right. From here with a 60m rope you can rap down to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and another set of rap rings. From the K-C rings, rap down to a third set of rings about 20' down and to climbers left or to a set of rings close to the tree below Dufty's Popoff. Either of these last two sets will get you to the base.

Caution! From the shuts on Kauffman-Cardon ledge rapping with 60m rope will be really close to reaching the ground. Be sure to tie knots in the ends and rap on climber's left of the left-facing corner below the K-C anchors.

Two 60m ropes tied together will hit the base from Bee Sting Corner.

Alternatively, you can scramble up and over the rocks that will be directly in front of you (west) when topping out Dufty's Popoff or Bee Sting Corner (to the left when you top out on Skyline Traverse). On the other side of these you can walk around to Luncheon Ledge and then either walk all the way down the Stairmaster or to the top of Ecstasy Junior and rap down from there.

Location

Start on top of the block to the right of the Skyline Traverse ledge (top of P1 of Skyline Traverse). There's a large block here you can sling as an anchor or if it's not a busy day, just use the shuts at the top of Skyline's P1.

A good alternative is to climb Ladybug (5.9) or The Tomato That Ate Cleveland (5.9) and finish either of those at a set of rap-rings just below the Dufty's Popoff corner.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack. Nice spot for a #3 Cam once you've pulled the roof. A few other pockets up there will take a pink or red tri-cam or equivalent sized cams.

Photos