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Routes in Ball Field Slabs

30 Seconds to All Night S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Amalgamator S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drill Wavin' New Haven S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kinesthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monarch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nickel And Dime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sheetz of Wrath TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
That 70 Show T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wedding route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Rock Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Mike Mobley
Page Views: 1,038 total, 20/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

This fine route has a defined crux early on gaining the main arete and then cruises up the arete, followed by a short traverse to the Kinesthesis anchors. Start on the larger grassy ledge below and right of the start for Kinesthesis. Work some easy moves up a flake past two bolts to the left side of the arete. From here make the 5.10 moves stepping out right onto the slab and using holds on the right side. Make a move to the obvious jug on the right side of the arete and continue up a move or two to a good stance to clip the 3rd bolt. Follow the left side arete up past five more bolts to top of the arete. Either traverse left along good holds/feet along the face 2 ft or so before the lip or traverse left along the lip for more open handed climbing.

CAUTION: There is a large loose block in the crack below the small pine tree. Do not disturb!

Protection

8 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchors (Kinethesis Anchors) w/ optional shared bolt on ledge out left.

Photos

thebmags
Outback, Subaru
 
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
 
2 years later....

Yea did this in the summer but may have been slightly off route. I went straight up and traversed over to the right arete (right of the on in the picture) at the second bolt via a high hand foot match and went straight up Mar 19, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Did u go left or right hand up for the crux? Jul 29, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Did u climb this recently? Like in the summer sun? Jul 25, 2014
thebmags
Outback, Subaru
 
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
 
interesting crux move than followed by super easy fun climbing Jul 24, 2014