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30 Seconds to All Night

5.10a/b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 29 votes
FA: Mike Mobley
Connecticut > Western Coastal… > W Rock SP > S Buttress > Ball Field Slabs
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closing on Ballfield Slabs. DetailsDrop down

Description

This fine route has a defined crux early on gaining the main arete and then cruises up the arete, followed by a short traverse to the Kinesthesis anchors. Start on the larger grassy ledge below and right of the start for Kinesthesis. Work some easy moves up a flake past two bolts to the left side of the arete. From here make the 5.10 moves stepping out right onto the slab and using holds on the right side. Make a move to the obvious jug on the right side of the arete and continue up a move or two to a good stance to clip the 3rd bolt. Follow the left side arete up past five more bolts to top of the arete. Either traverse left along good holds/feet along the face 2 ft or so before the lip or traverse left along the lip for more open handed climbing.

CAUTION: There is a large loose block in the crack below the small pine tree. Do not disturb!

Protection

8 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchors (Kinethesis Anchors) w/ optional shared bolt on ledge out left.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

CB working the crux
[Hide Photo] CB working the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian M
Long Beach, CA
 
[Hide Comment] interesting crux move than followed by super easy fun climbing Jul 24, 2014
Morgan Patterson
NH
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Did u climb this recently? Like in the summer sun? Jul 25, 2014
Morgan Patterson
NH
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Did u go left or right hand up for the crux? Jul 29, 2014
Brian M
Long Beach, CA
 
[Hide Comment] 2 years later....

Yea did this in the summer but may have been slightly off route. I went straight up and traversed over to the right arete (right of the on in the picture) at the second bolt via a high hand foot match and went straight up Mar 19, 2016