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Routes in Ball Field Slabs

30 Seconds to All Night S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Amalgamator S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drill Wavin' New Haven S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kinesthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monarch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nickel And Dime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sheetz of Wrath TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
That 70 Show T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wedding route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Rock Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 466 total, 33/month
Shared By: Honza Drahotušský on Sep 19, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Location and Aproach

Route is located just right from the route Sheets of Wrath. Scramble up the blocks on the decent platform under the right facing corner.

Description

P1: Climb up right facing corner up to the horizontal crack. Make couple difficult moves (crux) and continue via dike towards the juniper tree. Pass it and belay from next solid tree (5.8)
P2: Move left on the ledge under the blocky beginning. Pull over the blocks and through the small corner. Pass another tree on the right and continue climbing next two corners in the line. Finish up by the belay tree (5.6)

Descent

Rappel down from belay tree to an anchor of Sheets of Wrath. Another rappel gets you to the ground

Protection

Mostly a micro cams and small gear. Some slings for the tree

Photos

Old routes in old areas from old guidebooks are not that bad, I found some real gems. For example Crack and Treat 5.8+ *** in Lost Valley, right over the reservoir. Beautiful thing but only today 35 years later these old routes should be taken as one point more difficult. I ran into several examples like this and all is same. If it is old route from old guidebook, add one point. There are hundreds of routes in areas like Shuttle meadow, Lost valley, Cooks gap. Too bad all is owned by water company and climbing is on your own risk. (Legal risk) May 10, 2017
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
A route is a route. Its now open for others to climb on and know what to expect instead of some old CT guidebook that guides people to climbs that really suck. I also believe in heckling people that enter sucky routes. I'd love to see some more people try it. Apr 4, 2017
Sorry Morgan. It looks like you have hard time understand what is climbing really about. BTW in 20's you knew shit about free climbing here until Germans brought it here. Only think I can learn from ct climbing history is that you guys at making routes on top rope and chopping of bolts. Local climbing community sucks. So far I can see only top ropers outside. I didn't meet one person who would try to climb routes on sight. I don't get it. Howgh Apr 4, 2017
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Simple... you climb harder than that person or in a different style. And with West Rock, enough rock was removed from some routes that it is either a different route now or obvious that the line was never climbed. From your comments it seems like you're having difficult time understanding the extensive history of our area. Try getting you hands on a copy of Yankee Rock and Ice. Rock climbing in the USA started with clubs like Yale and Harvard Outdoor clubs in the 1920's, almost 100 years ago. Mar 21, 2017
I wonder how is possible to establish routes for others if "somebody" claims that "someone else" already peed on everything around and didn't tell anybody. I am not doing this for my fame or something like that I am doing it so others can see written that route exists and climb it. I am personally climbing same thing twice very very rarely so obviously it isn't effort for myself.
For second I can not take any critique from somebody who didn't even repeat the route. From somebody who is sitting by his computer and saying "oh yeah, the other guy climb this first". Hahahahahaha
Mar 19, 2017
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
All the TR/bouldering butt-shots I get on social media these days have twisted my brain to the point of possible no return. Personally I leave the FA line to the squirrels,lizards and birds that surely beat me to the FA.

We climbed just to the right of this route one day, I believe Morgan led the first part of this climb to get to the tree we TRed on. It did not look like a natural line or one worthy of finishing so I'm surprised to see it.

Mtn Proj is good for this obscure stuff for sure. I'm kind of surprised nobody ever tried to do a comprehensive guide for this state. Then again, trying to decipher the 30 claimed routes for 35' of a 40' tall crag is kind of hard to do. Sep 27, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Proportionally Ken has claimed to developed much more than all the rest. And I laugh that you put Boyd in that list, throw in Fritz, or any other important historical character. Sep 27, 2016
Mike, you do a grave misservice to the community and the history of the community by immediately associating anything done historically in CT to Ken. There were many others in Connecticut’s climbing development who are not aligned with the narrow ethos of Ken Nichols. Streibert, Heinz, LaPierre, Sullivan, Clark, Slater, Ivanoff, Pothier, Boyd, McClean and others were all avid players in the proliferation and development of CT climbing, including West Rock. None of them are bolt-chopping, OCD egocentrists, and they deserve the respect from our climbing community.

While I am cool with the addition of routes to the website, I believe there needs to be a level of professionalism and historical accuracy to these updates. Hence why I stated that boldly claiming an FA without any sort of historical research or discussion with the community is a bold or lazy move. Sep 27, 2016
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Ken already dropped a little pee on just about every piece of rock within 100 miles, FA claims are sensitive around here with that crowd. More routes for the database I say. Plus all the "old timers" all say west rock is a choss pile not worthy of climbing. Sep 26, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Thank you for adding this back to the database! Sep 26, 2016
i don't think you comprehend the words "first ascent" given the nature of your response. this is contradictory "I am not claiming we put our feet somewhere where nobody stepped before. We just made a first ascent of the new route we established."

While the community certainly appreciates (or at least some might) the effort to add routes to MP, it does not mean that it is YOUR route. There are a LOT of handwritten guides and other guidebooks of CT climbing other than the Dave Fasulo books. Just because the route isn't here on MP or in the Fasulo book, doesn't mean its never been climbed/named/recorded. There are well over 800 routes in other CT guidebooks that are NOT in either of the Fasulo CT Climbing guidebooks. THAT is the point Morgan and I are trying to make. Claiming something is yours when people have been climbing that cliff for 40+ years is a bold move. Especially if you haven't consulted any of the old-timers of CT for verification.

For a good example of a proper upload and FA claim, look at how CZD uploaded the route "Unknown" at Sleeping Giant. He did not claim FA and discussed the obvious nature of the line, leaving the FA claim open for discussion. Sep 26, 2016
I am not claiming we put our feet somewhere where nobody stepped before. We just made a first ascent of the new route we established. If you climb something anonymously it is like it never happened. You are just climbing rocks. If you establish a line and give it a name it is a route after that. Route where others can come and say "look we climbed the Wedding route". I am just trying to do something for local climbing. Sep 25, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Martin in New Haven would know but ya, this one def has been climbed. Sep 21, 2016
This route, as well as many of the other corners in the main slab area have been climbed countless times. be easy with the FA claims Sep 20, 2016