Type: Sport, 34 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Sept 29, 2013
Page Views: 1,091 total · 17/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Kind of a mini version of Venus on a Halfshell. Fun climbing; I just wish it kept going and was in a more accessible location.
Climb out on the juggy rail and clip your first bolt then throw your right foot up and press into a long reach for a crimpy flake (take care not to rip it off, please) Clip again and continue into a crimpy sequence that gets you to good holds where you can now move left and get a shake. Up high and left gets you to the start of a series of cool pockets angling back right that ends with a pop with bad feet to the anchor clipping jug.

Great for getting away from the crowds. Short but engaging.

Location

Above, almost at the very top of the steep gully between Cozened Stone and Very Nice Crack, on the left wall. The very nice 'Lectra Crack (which is actually nicer than Very Nice Crack, with one bolt at its start) is just left of it. Alternatively, if you are already in the vicinity of the Asylum, walk to the very left side of that crag and you will find a goat path that will drop you into the gully half way up. Take care if you come from the Asylum, as it is a little exposed at one point and you are above the Prudential.

Protection

4 fat galvanized glue-in bolts, clippie anchors.

Photos

AWESOME! Tool Rules! Oct 18, 2013
Jason Milford
LA, CA
Jason Milford   LA, CA
youtu.be/dm2glu3WLGk Oct 18, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
These new routes make me so happy. I'm a huge Tool fan. Oct 19, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
This route is so lonely. It gets no loving :( Jun 27, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Mark do you have any photo's of this? Jun 28, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Nope, sorry. Jun 28, 2016
Troy S
Somerville, MA
Troy S   Somerville, MA
I'm planning on checking it out this weekend. Jun 29, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Cool, have fun Jun 30, 2016
This route would be a classic easy 12a if it were lower on the hillside, it's location in the gully from hell probably keeps most applicants at bay. May 2, 2018