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Routes in The Very Nice Crag

'Lectra Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boar War S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cozened Stone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Creature Feature T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double D's S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Frontier S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forty Six and 2 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friend Zone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lateralus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord's Prayer, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mixed up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump it Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rippopotamus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tintinabulation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Nice Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Chris Hassig mid 80's
Page Views: 784 total · 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

It's name speaks true indeed. This is the "very nice crack" to the left of the mouth of the Northwest Passage Gully.

From the ledge grunt through tough fingers and ring-locks up a steep start to a wider and more moderate top on perfect hands and fists... top it out and belay from the top... This would be a 4 star route if it was cleaner and had a lower off anchor (edit- brand new glue-in top anchors added)... the bottom is nice and clean the top out is very dirty...

Definitely a contender for the best crack at rumney but Blackjack still wins it every time...

Location

Head up along the left edge of the steep gully a little until you can scramble left on to the ledge to belay and sink you fingers in to this beauty...

Protection

A small rack of cams from fingers to wide hands... Belay in crack on the ledge... Rap off of a near by tree or walk off to the left hooking up with a trail that brings you back around...
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
TRed this while drilling holes for a top anchor, and unfortunately can't say it really lives up to its name or looks from below. It is a couple grunty, power layback moves in a sharp edged crack to one or two nice hand jams. Sep 30, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10d
Mark, who took that big tree down?
I was there earlier this summer and it was impossible to climb it.
Thanks to the brave who took it down... Oct 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
A mighty lumberjack. He also chopped up the one that had fallen over the start of Bbbutress. Oct 30, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Great climb! It is very G-rated with straightforward and bomber cam placements, so it's a good one to push your lead grade a little bit. Definitely place a piece as high as you can before you pull off the ground, it's hard from the very first move. I thought that one of the cruxes of the route is getting a second piece in to protect the groundfall once you get established on the route. This route is pretty hard down low and you don't really reach a comfortable stance until you're in groundfall territory, so you'll have to fight a bit to protect yourself down there.

Cams from #0.5 through #3 is all you need to sew this up. Oct 13, 2017
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.10d
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.10d
To add to Jay's comments on the early pro: if you're out and sport climbing with a stick clip, it should be pretty easy to use that stick clip to shove a .75 in the crack to protect the ankle-breaking potential. If you're feeling too trad for that, I recommend topping out and belaying off a tree.
Enjoy the Pretty Okay Crack! Oct 22, 2017

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