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Routes in The Very Nice Crag

'Lectra Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boar War S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cozened Stone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Creature Feature T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double D's S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Frontier S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forty Six and 2 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friend Zone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lateralus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord's Prayer, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mixed up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump it Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rippopotamus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tintinabulation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Nice Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Chloe Quinn, (2nd Generation Team Tough)
Page Views: 1,737 total, 34/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Oct 5, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This route is the left most climb from the ledge left of Boar War. Climb on eye bolts with a technical slab crux at the 2nd bolt. Move left under fins of rock after 4th bolt until you can climb up onto a ledge. Make stemming\chimney moves to navigate the large corner as it widens and flares. Make a thoughtful move out of the corner to the left and up onto a small ledge. Clip the high bolt below a roof and prepare to make the stellar finishing moves to the anchor!

Location

From the Black Jack boulders (facing uphill), hike continuously left through the boulder field following cairns on the North West Territories trail, (this trail has seen significant upgrades recently) Continue past the north west territories until you reach the left end of the Prudential crag and the lower start of Swedish Girls. Hike left uphill for 35' to a starting ledge on your right. You will see the large 10 foot roof of Double D's above and the route Boar War to the right.

Protection

All Eye Bolts. 15 draws, long slings\draws helpful on bolts 5-9.
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9
A striking line with excellent and thoughtful climbing - this is a great route. Nov 13, 2017
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
  5.9
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
  5.9
Very fun movement on this, it has a little bit of everything for the moderate climber.

Highly recommend bringing slings to extend draws though, as the rope drag gets really bad near the top. Even lowering the leader was difficult. We also had the rope get stuck twice when pulling it down. Aug 15, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
My first route at NWP after all these years and what a fine intro! Four or five insecure and techy "mini cruxes". The climb stays with you until the very end. That made for quite an exciting and unique warm-up today. Beware, the obvious flaky foothold on the right wall above the first ledge is flexing and will go soon. There are other less obvious footholds which are just about as good and more solid. Prolly not the easiest 5.9 route for a new leader to break into that grade. Aug 16, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I really loved this climb and enjoyed the varied and interesting moves on it. For such an interesting and, in my opinion, somewhat obvious line I am surprised it was only recently put up. This should be a new "must-do" for the 5.9 climber, especially since it's only just up the hill from B-B-Buttress. Thank you to the Quinns for putting this one up! Jul 7, 2014
Love the wide range of moves on this climb. The first couple of moves get your mind thinking as you transition into different movement going up the route. The finishing hold creates a hulk-like feeling as you clip the anchors. Stellar route Oct 16, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Great route. I have done it a bunch of times now, pretty much every time I am in the area, and it still is a fun, interesting climb. Oct 6, 2013