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Routes in The Very Nice Crag

'Lectra Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boar War S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cozened Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Double Creature Feature T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double D's S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Frontier S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forty Six and 2 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friend Zone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lateralus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord's Prayer, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mixed up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump it Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rippopotamus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tintinabulation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Nice Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 9/11/10
Page Views: 284 total · 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Fun route! Solid rock, Fun moves on really interesting holds. And it's right next to one of the best cracks at rumney. if you dont like hiking, don't come out here but if you don't like crowds, it's worth it.

Reach up to the nice rail and hand traverse left till you can make crux moves up and right and in to the better holds. Climb big moves up the steep wall on good holds. One last tricky section makes the top less than easy.

Location

20 feet left of Very Nice Crack.
It's nice to have another route to play on up here when you come to try very Nice Crack.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This was looking pretty filthy when I was looking at it this weekend, also, the area was hit hard by blowdowns. There is a big tree leaning against the top of Very Nice Crack, a tricky one to figure out how to get down. Apr 8, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
bummer... it wasnt even super filthy when i first found it haha.... Apr 9, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Ward brushed this up a bit while we were checking it out the other day, Lee. Very Bouldery! The move up from the horizontal at the bottom to the gaston and match is a crank unless you are tall. Watch out for spines if you use other holds! The dead tree leaning on the cliff was removed too, as well as the one at the base of B-b-buttress, thanks to an intrepid chainsaw wielder. Oct 8, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
it is a bit easier if you have the reach there but Lily did it without much fuss and she's not a tall one... glad you got on it and thanks for the cleaning Ward!
i really enjoy the moves on this one... wish it was a bit longer... Oct 8, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I'll have to get on it again when I am feeling fresher. I would have liked to see Lily's beta. Oct 8, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
If we are thinking of the same move I believe we both used the same beta... but it was a little farther away for her of course... from what i remember it was all about controlling the gaston while rocking over a high foot, though it has been some time since ive been on it... i remember that section feeling technical rather than brutish as is the way for both lily and i ;)

do let me how it goes next time... and chime in on the grade, that was a tough one for me to decide on... Oct 9, 2013
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
 
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
 
It was the end of a long day when we got on it, but I was the only one to free climb it despite a couple of other strong climbers trying. I'm thinking more like 11d but I need to do it again when fresh. Pretty good, but needs a bit more love. One star on a three star scale.

Ward Oct 16, 2013
Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
  5.11c
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
  5.11c
Nice little pitch! The opening moves are super fun. I'm tall (6 ft 1) and found this route to be more of a one-move-wonder. The hardest moves are between the first and second bolt, then it eases as you go up. 11c seems fair, maybe even a little generous IMO. Oct 23, 2017

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