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Routes in The Very Nice Crag
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'Lectra Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Boar War S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Cozened Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Double Creature Feature T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Dynos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dr. Claw S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Final Frontier S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forty Six and 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Friend Zone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lateralus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lord's Prayer, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mixed up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pretty Good Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Project TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pump it Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rippopotamus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tintinabulation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Very Nice Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 43.80545, -71.84486 |
| FA: | jim shimberg 1993 |
| Page Views: | 1,843 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Nov 30, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
An interesting varied route that works through a slab, a roof and an airy arete.
The right most of the Passage climbs. Start from the ledge on the right side of the beginning of the Northwest Passage gully and belay from the single bolt anchor, or start lower for the newly added direct start that doesn't make it harder but adds a few draws to your rack and rope drag. Either start is slabby and technical and will deposit you at the difficult roof crux. Crimps and footwork will help you prevail. After a fun pull out of the roof (though it might be tough for shorter folks) you get to a no hand stance and look up at the finishing arete. It was covered in lichen but i cleaned off the holds you need so it climbs well presently. Fun climbing (around 5.11) on flakes and crimps puts you at the chains.
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