Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Very Nice Crag

'Lectra Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boar War S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cozened Stone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Creature Feature T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double D's S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Frontier S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forty Six and 2 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friend Zone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lateralus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord's Prayer, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mixed up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump it Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rippopotamus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tintinabulation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Nice Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: jim shimberg 1993
Page Views: 868 total, 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 30, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An interesting varied route that works through a slab, a roof and an airy arete.

The right most of the Passage climbs. Start from the ledge on the right side of the beginning of the Northwest Passage gully and belay from the single bolt anchor, or start lower for the newly added direct start that doesn't make it harder but adds a few draws to your rack and rope drag. Either start is slabby and technical and will deposit you at the difficult roof crux. Crimps and footwork will help you prevail. After a fun pull out of the roof (though it might be tough for shorter folks) you get to a no hand stance and look up at the finishing arete. It was covered in lichen but i cleaned off the holds you need so it climbs well presently. Fun climbing (around 5.11) on flakes and crimps puts you at the chains.

recommend

Location

The left most route at Prudential. Look for the roof.

Protection

15 bolts! to 2 bolt anchor if you do the extended start. I think it was 10 from the ledge.

Photos

stow
 
stow  
 
Definitely worth doing. Slab then roof then arete. What's not to like? Oh yeah. All the lichen - hopefully that'll clean up if people get on it. Apr 24, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I really love when people are so divided about the quality of a climb that 4 people vote and none vote the same... This one has 3 star, 2 star, 1 star, and a bomb haha... the consensus is no consensus... Oct 14, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a/b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a/b
Finally found a beta that makes it feel like 12a. Fun climb with varied type of climbing. Would give it 3 stars if a little bit cleaner. Oct 14, 2014