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Routes in The Very Nice Crag

'Lectra Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boar War S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cozened Stone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Creature Feature T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double D's S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Frontier S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forty Six and 2 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friend Zone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lateralus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord's Prayer, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mixed up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump it Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rippopotamus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tintinabulation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Nice Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 337 total, 7/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Oct 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The route opens with some very "thin" technical climbing to the 1st crux. A fairly difficult traverse left after clipping the 2nd bolt leads to the really cool lie-back flake and the 3rd bolt. Thin face climbing past the 3rd bolt leads to good holds to clip the 4th and final bolt, (do not fear the space between 3rd & 4th bolts, good holds make clipping the 4th bolt easy, especially if you utilize the ancient art of "technique").
A final "crimpy" crux, which has been called a "show stopper", stands between you and the anchors! Some are calling for a grade of 12d/13a.

Location

This route is located right of "A Very Nice Crack" and the "The Friend Zone". Hike uphill on the stone steps past the starting ledge of "Cozened Stone" & "Double D's" and around the right edge of a cave like area, till you are just below a 6' headwall in the trail, "Forty Six and 2" will be just to your left. Traversing left under "Forty Six and 2" on the narrow ledge leads to the start of "A Very Nice Crack" & "The Friend Zone".

Protection

4 protection bolts, and anchors. *stick clip the 1st bolt w\ a locking carabiner, (I HIGHLY recommend this)
M Sprague
New England
  5.12
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12
Doh! I should have gotten back on it on the lead faster :) It is a really fun route if you like thin technical face climbing, which I do. Aug 4, 2014
David Quinn  
 
Nice Job Tim D, on the 2nd ascent! Psyched that it is seeing a lot of traffic lately! Aug 3, 2014
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Awesome route name!!! Oct 19, 2013
David Quinn  
 
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Hooray for TOOL fans! New album 2014! Oct 18, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.12
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12
Congrats, Dave! I am really looking forward to getting on this. Oct 17, 2013