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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: G. Kirchhoff 10/2010 - FKFA
Page Views: 91 total · 2/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 16, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The paper thin crack on the right side of the face, just a sliver... it goes! Labeled as "seam" on the topo in the Ruckman Guide, this improbable looking line is a riot of a route and a true test of gear fiddlery. Mildly sequential, this technical climb takes small, but good protection.

Scramble up a chossy step feature to an off-set seam. Hover up the crack using finger tips, pinches, and thin, thin edges. The route's crux comes at about a body length off the ledge and is fairly manageable. A precarious move or two more and you can reach a rest below a shallow roof. Pop over the roof and finish on the ledge above. Build an anchor and walk off, or continue up Glass Ocean or Sail Away for a nice rope stretcher.

Location

Found at the base of the Glass Ocean, this line is the obvious, aid sized crack to the right of Left Tributary.

Protection

A set of micro nuts and a selection of cams. Besides micro nuts, I used a .1 micro cam, a .5, and a .75 bd camalot. Bring a cordelette or some slings if you plan to do this as a single pitch. You stop on the ledge and build an anchor in a crack system.

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