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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Allen Sanderson, JS, July 2015
Page Views: 159 total · 5/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Apr 23, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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You're likely to find two cruxes on this one, a rather devious, somewhat scary slabby face down low, and a more straight-forward, but more difficult face up high. Climb a short crack to a face with a seam that takes a really good micro-offset (e.g., HB), and find a 5.10 way around the blankness above to easier ground. Continue more or less straight up until it is possible to step slightly right to a bolt and puzzle out the moves for a body-length to a nice ledge and anchors.


Walk left along the base of Glass Ocean past the bolted routes of Delta Y, Lord of the Long Arms, and Atlantis until able to cut back right along the ledge system serving as the walk-off for those routes. Look for an incipient seam above a prominent, somewhat horizontal crack about ten feet off the deck. If you continue to where the ledge system rears up into a corner, you've gone too far.


Take a set of micronuts (offsets preferable, HB works better than peanut), set of regular nuts, and a single set of cams to 3". Rap from Metolious rap anchors.


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