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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, Kevin Sweeney 1988
Page Views: 198 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 21, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

On the south end of Glass ocean are 3 routes with bolts. This is the middle one. It climbs a smooth edgy face to a ledge and continues up a nice but easy crack.

Protection

Slings (Lg) around a horn and a couple extra pieces for a backup.2 draws for the lead plus a small selection of gear for the upper crack.

Photos

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Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options. Sep 19, 2014
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
This is damn good. If it were by the road it would be a fave. Jun 10, 2014
John Steiger  
 
That's great info Gary -- you need to post up more. I didn't see any rust, so I think these are good to go for awhile (but they are all SMC hangers, so at some point, replacing them would be a good public service). Hope you didn't think my post was a criticism. I have placed my share of split shaft buttonheads with SMC hangers (worse, a number were the shorty 1/4 inchers with homemade bedframe hangers) -- now also decades old; spooky! Jul 17, 2013
For what it's worth, the old bolts are 5/16 inch buttonheads. That makes them the same diameter as the bolt in a 3/8 inch 5 piece rawl so they have essentially the same shear strength. They are longer than a 1/4 inch buttonhead (1.5 vs. 1 inch) although shorter than the 5 piece rawls (2 to 3 inches). In rock as hard as quartzite they seem to maintain excellent pull-out strength. All this being said they are still 25 years old, so ... Jul 17, 2013
John Steiger  
 
All the routes on this little slab are quarter-inch buttonheads. They look to be in good shape, but.... Jul 14, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Definitely the best start to High Dive and a good climb on its own. Jun 25, 2007
tenesmus  
 
only good if you use it as an approach to the High Dive. Even then its not all that great. If you're there to do the High Dive then you might as well do Tsunami. Jun 3, 2007
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.9
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.9
This makes a good first pitch to High Dive as well, though it is a bit short. Oct 17, 2005
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Great route! Must do if your up there. The upper section protects well with small to med. cams. Oct 9, 2005
I climbed this route again today, and there is a right-facing crack that angles right. This can be climbed and isn't much harder than a 5.7. It adds a nice finish to a pleasant climb. Jul 13, 2004

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