Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, Kevin Sweeney 1988
Page Views: 330 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 21, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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On the south end of Glass ocean are 3 routes with bolts. This is the middle one. It climbs a smooth edgy face to a ledge and continues up a nice but easy crack.


Slings (Lg) around a horn and a couple extra pieces for a backup.2 draws for the lead plus a small selection of gear for the upper crack.


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Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
I climbed this route again today, and there is a right-facing crack that angles right. This can be climbed and isn't much harder than a 5.7. It adds a nice finish to a pleasant climb. Jul 13, 2004
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route! Must do if your up there. The upper section protects well with small to med. cams. Oct 9, 2005
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
This makes a good first pitch to High Dive as well, though it is a bit short. Oct 17, 2005
only good if you use it as an approach to the High Dive. Even then its not all that great. If you're there to do the High Dive then you might as well do Tsunami. Jun 3, 2007
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Definitely the best start to High Dive and a good climb on its own. Jun 25, 2007
John Steiger  
All the routes on this little slab are quarter-inch buttonheads. They look to be in good shape, but.... Jul 14, 2013
For what it's worth, the old bolts are 5/16 inch buttonheads. That makes them the same diameter as the bolt in a 3/8 inch 5 piece rawl so they have essentially the same shear strength. They are longer than a 1/4 inch buttonhead (1.5 vs. 1 inch) although shorter than the 5 piece rawls (2 to 3 inches). In rock as hard as quartzite they seem to maintain excellent pull-out strength. All this being said they are still 25 years old, so ... Jul 17, 2013
John Steiger  
That's great info Gary -- you need to post up more. I didn't see any rust, so I think these are good to go for awhile (but they are all SMC hangers, so at some point, replacing them would be a good public service). Hope you didn't think my post was a criticism. I have placed my share of split shaft buttonheads with SMC hangers (worse, a number were the shorty 1/4 inchers with homemade bedframe hangers) -- now also decades old; spooky! Jul 17, 2013
ddriver   SLC
This is damn good. If it were by the road it would be a fave. Jun 10, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options. Sep 19, 2014