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The Seam

5.10c/d, Trad, 25 ft,  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: G. Kirchhoff 10/2009 - FKFA
Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood… > Glass Ocean & Environs

Description

The paper thin crack on the right side of the face, just a sliver... it goes! Labeled as "seam" on the topo in the Ruckman Guide, this improbable looking line is a riot of a route and a true test of gear fiddlery. Mildly sequential, this technical climb takes small, but good protection.

Scramble up a chossy step feature to an off-set seam. Hover up the crack using finger tips, pinches, and thin, thin edges. The route's crux comes at about a body length off the ledge and is fairly manageable. A precarious move or two more and you can reach a rest below a shallow roof. Pop over the roof and finish on the ledge above. Build an anchor and walk off, or continue up Glass Ocean or Sail Away for a nice rope stretcher.

Location

Found at the base of the Glass Ocean, this line is the obvious, aid sized crack to the right of Left Tributary.

Protection

A set of micro nuts and a selection of cams. Besides micro nuts, I used a .1 micro cam, a .5, and a .75 bd camalot. Bring a cordelette or some slings if you plan to do this as a single pitch. You stop on the ledge and build an anchor in a crack system.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1. Glass Ocean
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2. Left Tributary
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3. Right Tributary
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4. The Seam
[Hide Photo] 1. Glass Ocean 2. Left Tributary 3. Right Tributary 4. The Seam