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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Steiger, Brent Manning, July 2013
Page Views: 244 total, 5/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 16, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Will you stay in control? You'll find the middle section a little licheny (as most new BCC routes nowadays likely will be), but the upper slab will more than make up for it -- think the last part of Northwest Passage, but with more exciting exposure. Might be somewhat reach-dependent, but I've minded grk's admonition to "fight grade creep." (And after top rope rehearsal, it really seemed 10c, but let's hear.)

Start ten or so feet right of the obviously older bolts of Get the Net. Face climb past three bolts to the blocky pillar, then work up either the dihedral formed by the pillar or the more sporty but easy climbing on the face of the pillar to its top. Step across to two more bolts, and diagonal right to horizontal cracks (cam) and up to a third (slightly hidden) bolt. From here, climb more or less straight up past a little apex roof to the left edge of the Northwest Passage/High Dive headwall. Ignore the urge to climb the cool looking but much easier left-facing dihedral to the left, and step right and trust yourself past three more bolts to Metolius rap anchors.

Location

Between Get the Net and High Dive.

Protection

A small selection of cams from .33” to 1.5”, draws, and maybe a runner or two. Rigged to descend with a single 70 meter rope.

Photos

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bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Hide-Yo-Plane! From below it doesn't look too good BUT.. Loved it! Great find JS!
9 bolts to metolius rap-hangers. Jun 7, 2017
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Good stuff. I flunked reading comprehension on this one, only saw the first bolt on the upper slab and climbed the dihedral instead. Will go back but the dihedral is super so there's that. I'm 5'6" and had to stretch for a couple clips but the climbing itself posed no reach problems. Jun 10, 2014
Brent Manning
salt lake city
 
Brent Manning   salt lake city
 
exposed finish makes this a stellar addition to bcc. Credit Steiger for great new route, pro exactly where needed, reachy below 6'. Aug 9, 2013
grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
clean, brilliant, climbing up great rock. completely independent of it's neighbors, this well-engineered line really compliments the area. if you like the style of climbing at the glass ocean, i'd highly recommend this. bring at least 12 draws/slings, i had 4 slings which helped cut down the obvious areas of drag. Jul 22, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
You can tell he was out of his element with the LCC Lend Me A Dime post because he still threw BCC in the description (pre-edit, fixed now)...
Way to milk the ancient crags! Can't wait to get on this. Jul 16, 2013
grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
bcc is steigerville!

you had me worried for a while posting lcc stuff.
it'll be nice to have something new up here. Jul 16, 2013