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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor 1992
Page Views: 2,054 total, 14/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 20, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Left of Glass Ocean is a gully with a wide crack at it's terminus. Tsunami climbs this, angling right to the bolts that are left of Glass Ocean. It then surmounts a series of roofs. Footwork is, as always, integral. This climb utilizes thin edges all the way up through all the roofs. This is probably the best way to start High Dive. There is one additional bolt than what the Ruckman guide shows.

Protection

5 bolts and a 3 bolt anchor, if you aim for the top of Northwest Passage's 1st pitch. A piece at the initial overlap wouldn't hurt (.75 size).

Photos

kent w
  5.10b
kent w  
  5.10b
Great route for BCC, definite 3 star! Long (180+'), steep, and great rock and great positions. Double set of TCUs and a full set of wired stoppers will do, but bring a bunch of full length runners, for the first 6 or 7 placement (it will really help with rope drag). Tenesmus is right, start in corner and climb straight up below 2nd bolt (skip the Glass Oceans start and first bolt left of Glass Oceans), there's gear if you want it but climbing is easy. Aug 31, 2014
boltclippinfool
  5.10b PG13
boltclippinfool  
  5.10b PG13
Steep exposure, old school bolting and some loose rock (pulled off a tennis ball sized chunk), make this a fairly heady lead. Bring some gear for before the first bolt. This route hits the roofs to left of N.W. Passages' first pitch. You can rap from the first pitch anchors of N.W.P. Aug 21, 2012
Derek Newman
Holladay, UT
 
Derek Newman   Holladay, UT
 
This climb is slightly awkward in the beginning. You need three to four small quad cams for the first quarter of the climb, which is possibly a 5.8; you can do the first three bolts of the 5.9 climb right next to it, but I recommend doing the route the setters intended on doing because there is a really fun undercling move. Prepare to have a lot of fun once you hit the first bolt. I believe the reason this climb was set is because there is a gratuitous amount of exposure once you go over the roof. It is really exciting and there are great holds to power over all of the roofs. Enjoy... Sep 4, 2009
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
  5.10b
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
  5.10b
Doesn't look like much from below, but when you get up on the route, there's a lot of fun to be had. You're super exposed, kind of dangling from this roof system, which is way fun, but the holds are all where you need them and are consistently positive.

If you are in the area, make sure to give this one a shot! Aug 30, 2009
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10b
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10b
An alternate start is to use Glass Ocean's first two bolts and then the first bolt directly above those use a long runner before angling left to the 2nd bolt on the route. Its also possible to get a micro-cam below the bolt protecting the crux. Oct 2, 2008
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.10b
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.10b
Otherwise you have a kinda weird route with a goofy top out. Jun 28, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Between the wide crack and the bolts for Glass Ocean is a really nice face with great edges and sinker nut placements. This is a nicer, less grovelly way to get to the first bolts of Tsunami. If you remember to use lots of long runners, do it in the dark and link it all the way to the top of the High Dive you've got yourself a 3-star climb!

Nov 10, 2005