PRINT: Rock Climb Tsunami, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Tsunami

5.10b, Trad, 200 ft (61 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 40 votes
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor 1990
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Glass Ocean & Environs

Description

Left of Glass Ocean is a gully with a wide crack at it's terminus. Tsunami climbs this, angling right to the bolts that are left of Glass Ocean. It then surmounts a series of roofs. Footwork is, as always, integral. This climb utilizes thin edges all the way up through all the roofs. This is probably the best way to start High Dive. There is one additional bolt than what the Ruckman guide shows.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 pitons and a 3 bolt anchor, if you aim for the top of Northwest Passage's 1st pitch. A 1" cam at the initial overlap wouldn't hurt.

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Cole living in the edge

Cole climbing

But once into them, they are very enjoyable.

Tsunami's tiered roofs look initially intimidating.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tenesmus

Between the wide crack and the bolts for Glass Ocean is a really nice face with great edges and sinker nut placements. This is a nicer, less grovelly way to get to the first bolts of Tsunami. If you remember to use lots of long runners, do it in the dark and link it all the way to the top of the High Dive you've got yourself a 3-star climb!

Nov 10, 2005

icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT

5.10b

Otherwise you have a kinda weird route with a goofy top out. Jun 28, 2008

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT

5.10b

An alternate start is to use Glass Ocean's first two bolts and then the first bolt directly above those use a long runner before angling left to the 2nd bolt on the route. Its also possible to get a micro-cam below the bolt protecting the crux. Oct 2, 2008

Finn The Human
The Land of Ooo

5.10b

Doesn't look like much from below, but when you get up on the route, there's a lot of fun to be had. You're super exposed, kind of dangling from this roof system, which is way fun, but the holds are all where you need them and are consistently positive.

If you are in the area, make sure to give this one a shot! Aug 30, 2009

Derek Newman
Holladay, UT

This climb is slightly awkward in the beginning. You need three to four small quad cams for the first quarter of the climb, which is possibly a 5.8; you can do the first three bolts of the 5.9 climb right next to it, but I recommend doing the route the setters intended on doing because there is a really fun undercling move. Prepare to have a lot of fun once you hit the first bolt. I believe the reason this climb was set is because there is a gratuitous amount of exposure once you go over the roof. It is really exciting and there are great holds to power over all of the roofs. Enjoy... Sep 4, 2009

boltclippinfool

5.10b PG13

Steep exposure, old school bolting and some loose rock (pulled off a tennis ball sized chunk), make this a fairly heady lead. Bring some gear for before the first bolt. This route hits the roofs to left of N.W. Passages' first pitch. You can rap from the first pitch anchors of N.W.P. Aug 21, 2012

k Wheeler
Salt Lake City

5.10b

Great route for BCC, definite 3 star! Long (180+'), steep, and great rock and great positions. Double set of TCUs and a full set of wired stoppers will do, but bring a bunch of full length runners, for the first 6 or 7 placement (it will really help with rope drag). Tenesmus is right, start in corner and climb straight up below 2nd bolt (skip the Glass Oceans start and first bolt left of Glass Oceans), there's gear if you want it but climbing is easy. Aug 31, 2014