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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, 1988
Page Views: 13,016 total, 69/month
Shared By: Mason on May 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


148 Opinions

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Description

This route is fantastic every time! One of the best 5.8's in BCC!!

There is a ledge about 25 feet up from the start. On the descent it is important to stop on this ledge and walk off around the side. You can NOT lower all the way back down with a 60 meter rope!!! So be careful.

Stuart & Ruckman's Wasatch Climbing Guide simply describes this climb as "Smooth as glass, vast as the ocean. The upper face is beautiful and continuous."

There are some excellent puzzles to solve on the way up, and it feels very, very exposed.

Some of the bolts feel pretty far apart as a result of the exposure.

Protection

9 bolts to the anchors. Various sized quickdraws and even a couple of runners useful as the route wanders a bit and rope drag can be bad.

It would be possible to deck between the second and third bolts (but not likely, as it is easy climbing around to the shelf), and also between the third and fourth bolts (because you are basically starting over again from the shelf, and could fall back down to it). This warning is not being issued as a scare tactic, but it should be issued because the possibility exists.
Mason Stone
Boise, ID
  5.8+ PG13
Mason Stone   Boise, ID
  5.8+ PG13
Excellent, well worth the hike in, keep your head as the run outs give you the feel of a harder line. View is awesome. Watch for loose rock in the staging area and on the hike in. PG 13 as some have said down low you may deck unless you have an attentive belay partner who works miracles, even then you still might. Oct 25, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
I feel the 5.8 grade is fair. The grade gets inflated by others because of the mental game the route will play with you. This will be worse if you only climb at the gym, slips, and challenge. I didn't find it necessary to place pro between the third and fourth bolt. Mainly because the run out wasn't that long, on easy terrain, and the pro options did not seem to prevent a ledge deck very well. However I am sure some pro could add some mental duct tape, especially if you trend to the right as you head towards the next bolt. This is the finest quartzite slab i have come across. Great flow. Jul 16, 2015
Bonneville Williams
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9 PG13
Bonneville Williams   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9 PG13
Climbed this yesterday. Def a 5.9 considering the difficulty from the ground to the first 2 bolts. Once you gain the ledge it's smooth sailing from there. From the ledge to the chains I'd say it's a pretty average 5.8. We placed a cam between bolts 3 and 4 since there is some serious ledge deck potential. However, the climbing to that 4th bolt is pretty easy assuming as others have said, 5.8 isn't you limit. By far one of the best 5.9's in the canyon if you like your routes thin and crimpy!!! Sep 24, 2014
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
I was a little nervous reading about the runouts, especially because when you're above them, those buttonheads begin to look very old and a little rusty.
But from the threads, it looks like wiser and more experienced climbers than me have deemed the bolts bomber, and they all seemed solid if dated. The anchors too, look bomber and like they've received some more recent TLC. (But bring a 48 inch sling and equalize if you're going to set up a top rope, the anchor bolts are on different levels).

That said, I would be in favor of a rebolt of this and Northwest Passage and would be happy to volunteer my time if anyone's going for it. A nice, new bolt below would've been reassuring considering the distance between bolts and the delicacy of the moves. Diddo on the 9th bolt looking far away, but the 8th bolt was definitely still there, and in the end, I don't think the runouts were bad. Bracing, but not dangerous.

Solid climbing for the grade, but no more than 5.8 if you climb with your head up and pay attention to the sequence a couple of moves ahead of you, especially coming up on and passing bolt #2, and especially if you expect that it is a sustained 5.8. If you fire up this line without looking more than a move ahead of you, you'll end up in trouble. For sure, it's not a gym climb. Still, considering Coral Bells, 5.9 sections of Worthy Woopsie, and MEGA (5.9-), as well as the climbs at the slips, I think 5.8 is correct. I don't think there's any way this is a 5.9 for the area.

I did place a Green C3 between the third and fourth bolt, but only because I brought the gear. The climbing was so secure going for that bolt that I didn't feel like I needed it. I think other climbers are placing a size 0 Metolius TCU. The placement is bomber. I found what looked like a couple of other marginal C3 placements that looked marginal, but no useful nut placements and in the end didn't place any gear after the first piece. All in all, I don't think the gear added anything to the climb. You could place a small cam when you gain the ledge, but once you stand up, the next bolt is right there. Anyway, I don't think gear adds much unless 5.8 is your limit.

The other link didn't work. Here's a new link. Jun 20, 2014
tscacadc
  5.9+ PG13
tscacadc  
  5.9+ PG13
This is a good route but its no 5.8 Comparing it to the other climbs in the Canyon this is at least a 5.9+ Jun 3, 2014
Gary Taylor  
5.9
I strongly agree with the recommendation to place a TCU (or nut) between bolts 3 and 4. This route was not put up as a sport route. We would not have considered placing a bolt next to such an easy to protect crack in 1988. In fact the 3rd bolt was added long after the first ascent when we heard of climbers placing no pro between the second bolt and what is now the fourth bolt. As to the concern at the second bolt and the overall difficulty of the route, the simple fact is this route is NOT 5.8. We always considered it 5.9 and not a particularly easy 5.9. The beginning moves are certainly harder than any move on Hollowman for example (though granted the route is not as sustained). Aug 22, 2010
Jerome Sharpe
Wanship, UT
Jerome Sharpe   Wanship, UT
Stick clip the 2nd bolt and place a purple TCU between bolt 3 & 4 and you won't have to worry about an ankle-breaker. Crux is 5.8+, from the deck to 2nd clip. Aug 21, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+ PG13
No, I'm talking about the GO start which is the left most line. Did it again and still thinks it a pretty tuff 5.8 section with serious consequences if you blow the 2nd clip! Sorry to hear of your fall Lukas. If the leader belays at the top, a strectch 60 m rope will make it - it will not make it if you try to lower! Safest to always have the second tie in before climbing. Jun 7, 2010
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
  5.8
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
  5.8
I think it's worth mentioning that the three bolts directly below Glass Ocean are not part of Glass Ocean. They are Left and Right Tributaries, and are rated 5.10d/5.11a.

Glass Ocean shares the same starting bolts as Northwest Passage, then takes a jog to the right at the ledge.

I suspect people don't realize this when attempting Glass Ocean, hence the comments about difficulty at the beginning. Sep 4, 2009
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.8
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.8
if the description above scares you. a purple tcu placement is available between bolt 3 and 4 to give you some added anti-ledge-deck security. Sep 4, 2009
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
  5.8
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
  5.8
Did this today, and it was a blast! Started out below on Left Tributary (5.10d/5.11a) then continued up Glass Ocean.

There are a few slightly run out bits, but it's never on anything really difficult, so I wouldn't stress it :)

Also, as of today all the bolts were indeed there. Aug 30, 2009
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
  5.9+
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
  5.9+
I agree with Stan, the climbing at the first and second bolt I thought to be VERY hard for the grade... felt more like 5.10. Past the ledge it was smooth sailing, but that start made me feel a bit down... until everyone else climbing it that day agreed that it felt much harder than 5.8.

Did any ledges break off recently or am I just not seeing the right sequence? Aug 22, 2009
LukasJ
5.8+
LukasJ  
5.8+
Be careful getting to the second bolt. Fell from here and decked, breaking two ribs. May 19, 2009
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Surprised no comments about the crux? - passing the first bolt and clipping the second. Pretty difficult for 5.8 and the hangar is looking pretty worked. Be careful is 5.8 is your limit. Great climb though! Oct 2, 2008
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.8+
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.8+
ditto the 70 meter. Had enough rope to feel comfortable.

It should be mentioned that the glass ocean traverses right on the ledge to the next bolt line. If you continue straight up you will be on Northwest Passage. Jun 28, 2008
Robert MacKinnon  
  5.9-
A 70m rope easily gets you back to the base. This also allows you to TR Left Tributary (5.10d) and Right Tributary (5.11a). Jun 11, 2008
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
We climbed this today and the 8th bolt is there, can't see it from 7 but it's there. 7 to 9 would indeed be run out. Sep 28, 2007
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
8th bolt seemed to be missing, so there was a pretty long run-out between 7 and 9. Anchors at the top were pretty at least. Jun 16, 2007
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
CLASSIC!!!My favorite at the grade. This climb alone is worth the hike... Oct 9, 2005
A discussion about rebolting the top anchors to this route can be found here:

climbingsaltlake.com/resour…

Jul 17, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.9-
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9-
Agreed, about the space between bolts. Bolt 4 is "high" off the ledge. Although, the climbing is easy to get to Bolt 4, if you slip it will create an ankle injury possibility. Also, after clipping bolt 7, you can't see bolt 8, and bolt 9 looks really far off. Don't panic, for as soon as you approach bolt 8, it will become apparent. Jun 4, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.9-
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9-
One of the bolts was a spinner (#5 or #6), also, the anchor consists of 2 bolts, neither looked great, and a flake. One of the anchor bolts was definitely bent. Nice candidate for a rebolt. May 30, 2004