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Routes in Glass Ocean and Environs

A Fish Called Wanda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atlantis T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Delta Y S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Get the Net T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glass Ocean S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Dive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hydroplane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Tributary S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pane, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right Tributary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sail Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seam, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thar She Blows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Troubled Seas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot and Glen Henshaw, 1994
Page Views: 117 total, 2/month
Shared By: johnny utah on May 12, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A little rough but a good climb with very good rock in places and an awesome little summit to end on! Most of this climb is 5.9. Loose rock is, however, a concern.

P1: Face climb past two bolts (crux 5.10c) to a broken horizontal ledge, watch for loose rock. Step left and pull an overhang past a pin to a bolt (5.8+). To minimize rope drag on the second pitch it is probably a good idea to set a belay anchor here.

P2: Climb a stellar finger crack above the belay (5.9+) then trend right past a couple bolts, WATCH FOR LOOSE ROCK. From the last bolt continue straight up leaving a left facing corner to the right and past a pin to a final small headwall. Climb past a final bolt to the top of the headwall and small summit (5.9) This lies ABOVE and behind the Diving Board (rock at the top of High Dive). Chain anchors at the top.

Location

Start on top of the block/ledge at the top of the Atlantis or Lord of the Long Arms routes. Look for two bolts on a face just left of the High Dive route and its nailed pins.
On descent it may be possible to do a double rope rap off the top to the base of the climb but it is probably best to rap over to the top of High Dive (40ft) and use the rap route there to minimize the chance of getting a rope stuck or causing rockfall onto yourself when the rope is pulled. From the top of High Dive two 80ft raps bring you to the base of Glass Ocean.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Mixed fixed pro and gear. Fixed chain anchors at the top.

Photos

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Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Good beta, thanks. Great belay ledge. Crux could use some brushing - route doesn't seem to see much traffic but is worth doing and loose rock is minimal. Jul 26, 2012