All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead

Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse

Name: Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse
Rating: 3.4

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

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Routes in Spearhead

L › R R › L A › Z

	Age Axe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	All Two Obvious T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Barb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	East Prow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Humdinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kingfisher, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Obviously Four Believers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Prowess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Spear Me the Details T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stone Monkey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sykes' Sickle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ten Essentials, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Three Stoners T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, Grade IV
GPS:	40.2567, -105.63834
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	13,619 total · 84/month
Shared By:	fossana on Jul 8, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

If you're looking for a Park traverse but want something shorter with a bit more vertical climbing and a bit less bushwhacking than Walk in the Park, check out Spearhead to Long's.

Location

Approach

From the Glacier Gorge trailhead take the established trail to Black Lake. From the lake follow the climbers' trail east above treeline. Head south across the meadows to the base of Spearhead.

Route
Spearhead
Choose your own adventure up Spearhead. More popular options include:

N Ridge (5.6)
E Prow (5.9)
Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
The Barb (5.10-)
All Two Obvious (5.11d R)
Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
Stone Monkey (5.12a)

Chiefshead
From the summit of Spearhead, continue along the ridge. The most direct line is to take the Central Rib (5.7) or a variation thereof. One could zigzag up the ramp systems if easier climbing is desired.

Pagoda
Now the real fun begins. Follow the obvious knife edge ridgeline along the W Ridge (5.7) of Pagoda.

Longs
From the summit of Pagoda, pick a line to Longs to suit your desired level of difficulty (class 3+).

Descent
From the Keyhole Route on Long's, cross-country down the talus slopes (e.g. the Trough) back into Glacier Gorge. Follow the trail out the way you came.

Water
Depending on the season it may be difficult to find water on the route proper unless there is snow and/or runoff. Plan accordingly.

Answers to FAQ
From messages:

I started with the North Ridge of Spearhead and did not bring a rope. Most of the route is not sustained.
I don't remember my car-to-car time. It took me ~9 hrs from the trailhead to the summit of Long's at a casual pace and having done only the last 500' previously.