Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: ???
Page Views: 5,113 total · 51/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Sep 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Uber good route with a wilderness feeling and great position. Huck it past Spearheard and ascend the gully between Pagoda and Chiefs Head. This gully can have snow, ice, and rock fall in it year round(axe & pons??), we avoided this by scrambling rock on the left.

Once at the saddle, the climbing begins. We gained the ridge on the south side which I thought was the 5.7 crux. Once on the ridge, the climbing is straightforward and trends on the south side of the ridge with a few gendarmes to ascend and down climb.

Descend down the northeast ridge to the saddle between Pagoda and the Keyboards, then turn northwest down the scree and talus slope.


Alpine rack with up to a #3 BD Camalot.
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Route finding is pretty straightforward. The crux slab is, in fact, avoidable with some 5.6ish climbing on the north side of the ridge following ramps up and left, then back right, to near the anchor of the slab pitch. Another route finding challenge followed the crux pitch. We followed a ramp down and right until a break allowed us to climb back up and left to gain the ridge again. This is really good climbing to access the ridge. Climbing this in boots with a full overnight pack is fun. Single rack to 2". Jun 16, 2018