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Routes in Chiefshead

Central Rib, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Spur T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,812 total, 34/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route begins on the NW side of the Chiefshead, below the NW face. The north ridge or central rib is obvious from this location to your left. Follow steep disconnected ramps and ledges up to the NE to gain the rib proper. Once on the rib, a rope might be nice for about a pitch or less depending on how comfortable you are with exposure (5.easy). After 100-200 feet, the route turns back into scrambling for a bit, until you are directly under the north ridge proper. From here, you have several choices, and route finding becomes more interesting. Stay directly on the arete proper for the 5.7 route. The rock is fairly good, and the exposure and views become increasingly robust. Venture to the left or the right of the route for easier/harder terrain. About 3/4 of the way up the route, before the final headwall, there is an option to traverse west above the NW face to avoid all of the difficulties.

Descent: Follow the northwest ridge down to Stone Man pass.

Location

Hike into the upper Glacier Gorge, and make your way around to the west side of the Spearhead. There are a number of good bivies here, if you have a bivy permit. This is also a quite reasonable 1-day adventure.

Protection

Standard alpine rack is more than adequate.
fossana
leeds, ut
fossana   leeds, ut
I did the N Ridge of Spearhead linkup, then continued onto Pagoda and Long's. Highly recommend at least continuing on to the W Ridge of Pagoda. Aug 22, 2012
Chris Sheridan
Boulder, CO
Chris Sheridan   Boulder, CO
This is pretty cool route, more so for the setting than the quality of the climbing. I climbed it after climbing the North Ridge on Spearhead, which is really cool 'cause you're essential following the same feature the entire time; up and over the summit of Spearhead and on to the summit of Chiefshead. The climbing is a lot like the Tetons with a few harder sections separated by easier scrambling. Apr 3, 2011