Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: RMWright, Summer 2013
Page Views: 958 total, 18/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin just right of the fully trad route called Roof Rack, which is the roof and corner system. Scantily Trad should be obvious with its five bolts leading to a headwall crack. The rock on ST is excellent. Hard and continuously devious climbing begins at clip two and remains complex and powerful until halfway through the crack above. While there are hard sequences at each bolt but # 1, getting to and past bolts 3 and 4 sets up a long and complex crux. Having the draws in place saves some major pump. ST gets full southwest sun after 1:00pm and is climbable well past sunset.

Location

Scantily Trad starts just RIGHT of Roof Rack. Jug Haul starts off a bolt but is LEFT of Roof Rack.

Protection

Five draws, a few small cams, and/or wired stoppers. Double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.12b
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.12b
We hung fixed draws, 3rd and 4th and 5th bolts, , and we created a nice belay platform. Really great climb, lots of different types of climbing in one lap, not to be taken lightly. Still need a piece or two in the upper crack when it turns to 5-10d. Aug 15, 2017
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.12b
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.12b
Great route! All the business is on bolts, but the pump could still kick you off the top. Top protected perfectly with a 0.3 C4 and a blue Mastercam. Aug 14, 2016
evan h
Denver, CO
  5.12b
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.12b
A really cool route with some fun gymnastic moves. Don't let the trad classification scare you away. The business is all on bolts, and you could honestly bring no gear, although it would certainly be an airy finish. I placed a BD 0.3 and 0.4 which more than sewed it up. Jul 17, 2016
slim

  5.12
slim    
  5.12
Awesome, thanks Richard - a really nice set of routes on this wall. Definitely a little gem for the area. Jul 20, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Job done; 4th and 5th bolts shifted left approximately 18 inches according to the integrity of the rock. The rope does indeed feed nicely to the crack. The added bonus is that clipping 4 and 5 is easier than before. The step into the crack is a tiny bit more airy but not really any cause for concern. Jul 20, 2015
slim

  5.12
slim    
  5.12
Man, that is so funny about the incut - I did the route several times before I 'accidently' found it as I was falling off and snagged it. That thing is sooo hidden, even when you are looking at it. It definitely makes clipping the last one a lot easier.

I think if you could move it a foot or maybe 18 inches left it should be good (assuming the rock is good for a bolt). For me, the crux was that sort of 'dynamic high step' with the right foot. I was relieved when it went - I was pretty nervous about the potential floss'n'toss :)

Really nice climbing on this one. Jul 17, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Interesting, Slim. When Patrick and jumped on it, I had a similar thought, perhaps a foot, perhaps less. The last bolt was placed with the idea of clipping off the incut, but this might still work with the bolt a foot to the left. I'll do it. How far are you thinking? Jul 17, 2015
slim

  5.12
slim    
  5.12
This route could be an excellent route if the last 2 bolts were moved a bit to the left. In their current location, the rope runs diagonally under your feet during the slightly tweaky crux, and you have the potential for a total flossing. Also, both biners are mangled around a corner. Moving the 2 bolts a bit left would 'feather' it nicely into the crack.

The rock at the start is pretty wild. It is really smooth, kind of like climbing a granite kitchen counter top, yet not slippery. Jul 17, 2015