Elevation: 9,500 ft
GPS: 39.784, -105.624 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,937 total · 283/month
Shared By: Harald Harb on Jun 20, 2011 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Drive up Mill Creek Rd, from Dumont. The National Forest boundary is well marked. Look for a big rock outcrop on your right high above the road. There are some trails that lead to the first wall, which is parallel with the road. All the way to the right side is a deep corner with two routes.

This is a secluded area with few climbers. I have put up four routes. There are chains at the top. They are trad routes, running from 5.7 to 10a. They are an easy 60m rope length.

There are 4 main routes from left to right, in order, Freeway, then by the dihedral, Honey Pot, Jug Haul, and Roof Rack. There is a bolt on "Jug Haul" to protect the first placement. If you miss the placement (flaired crack), it's a groundfall, so the clip is for safe keeping.

Since 2011, 20 new routes have been added. Most recent in 2013 October, Deflator-Mouse, 5.11b.

Getting There

Drive west on I-70 to the Dumont exit (exit 235 off westbound I-70), about 2.5 miles. If you come from the west, you must use exit 234, Downieville. Take a right before the post office, Mill Creek Road. up about 2.5 miles. This has easy climbing for introducing new climbers to the sport. It is South-facing and warm on sunny days. Approach time to the base of the climbs is ~5 minutes and 10-15 minutes to the top for TR.

Per the approach/driving beta as described isn't the best. 2.5 miles from the post office will actually put you in a little lot where the road turns from pavement to dirt, and with private land up the dirt road. And this is well past the cragging....

More accurately, it's about 2 miles up the road from the post office, right uphill from a steep, narrow section of road where you can see a cliff on the left, across the creek. The Mill Creek Crag won't be that visible as you're driving up because, well, it's right above you -- like only 100 feet above and back a little from the road, up and right (to the east) across from this aforementioned crag.

Addendum: look for the National Forest signs on the right after a sharp right turn. The crag is 200 yards up from there, look high on the right side of the slope.

L->R:

A. Sacrum-blue, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

B. Corona Alley, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.

C1. The Dirty Boulevard, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.

C2. Dihedral, 8+ R, 1p, 60', gear or TR.

D. Face (left of Freeway), 9, 1p, TR.

E. Bulge to Groove, 10, 1p, TR.

F. Freeway, 8-10, 1-2p, 30'-60'?, gear or TR.

G. Face, 7, 1p, gear.

H. Deflator-Mouse, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.

I. Big Dreams , 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

J. Slot Machine, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

K. Quarantine-age Mutant COVID Crushers, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.

L. Feline Antics, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.

M1. Joint Therapy, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

M2. Groper, 10, 1p, 70', TR, now bolts.

N. Honey Pot, 9 or 10-, 1p, 70', gear or TR.

O. Chimney, 5, 1p, 70', TR.

P. Jug Haul, 10, 1p, 50', bolt & gear or TR.

Q. Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack), 9+, 1p, 60', gear or TR.

R. Scantily Trad, 12, 1p, 65', bolts & gear.

S. Lou Reed, 12 A0, 1p, 65',bolts & gear.

T. Eye of the Tiger, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

U. Sweet Petite, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

V. Turning Point, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.

W. The Pit of Despair, 9, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.

Caring for our crag

This crag has turned into a destination for many out of town people and as many as 5 or 6 parties climbing are there at a time, especially weekends. As you would expect when this happens, there are those that respect the natural environment and those who are oblivious or even abuse it. Now that Dumont has become popular; we have also the consequences of popularity, "people".

Let's, as climbers and stewards of our beloved environment, respect our land so we can all have a good experience here. People and climbers bring their dogs, the dogs run around, and many are uncontrolled. Also, we find dog and human poop near and even on the trails and at the base of the climbs. The crag is on National Forest land. Please "take out with you what you brought, clean up after your dog, clean up after yourself (including toilet paper), etc. Let's be people who are courteous to each other. In other words, "please leave as little trace of your presence as possible."

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
The Dirty Boulevard
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Honey Pot
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Corona Alley
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Joint Therapy
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Groper
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
Feline Antics
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Quarantine-age Mutant COVID Crus…
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Deflator-Mouse
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 44
Sweet Petite
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Turning Point
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 43
Eye of the Tiger
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Scantily Trad
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Lou Reed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Dirty Boulevard
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Honey Pot
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Corona Alley
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Smokin' John (submitted as…
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Joint Therapy
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Groper
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Feline Antics
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Quarantine-age Mutant COVID…
 12
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Deflator-Mouse
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Sweet Petite
 44
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Turning Point
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Eye of the Tiger
 43
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Scantily Trad
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Lou Reed
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mill Creek Crag »

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