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Mill Creek Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mill Creek Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Corona Alley S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eye of the Tiger S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Floating Air Biscuit, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Freeway T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Joint Therapy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jug Haul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lou Reed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Neat Petite S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Quarantine-age Mutant COVID Crushers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Remote (chance of) Learning S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Sacrum-blue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Scantily Trad T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Slot Machine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sweet Petite S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Wright Stuff, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	9,500 ft	2,896 m
GPS:	39.7838, -105.6242 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Harald Harb on Jun 20, 2011 · Updates
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Description

Drive up Mill Creek Rd, from Dumont. The National Forest boundary is well marked. Look for a big rock outcrop on your right high above the road. There are some trails that lead to the first wall, which is parallel with the road. All the way to the right side is a deep corner with two routes.

This is a secluded area with few climbers. I have put up four routes. There are chains at the top. They are trad routes, running from 5.7 to 10a. They are an easy 60m rope length.

There are 4 main routes from left to right, in order, Freeway, then by the dihedral, Honey Pot, Jug Haul, and Roof Rack. There is a bolt on "Jug Haul" to protect the first placement. If you miss the placement (flaired crack), it's a groundfall, so the clip is for safe keeping.

Since 2011, 20 new routes have been added. Most recent in 2013 October, Deflator-Mouse, 5.11b.

Getting There

Drive west on I-70 to the Dumont exit (exit 235 off westbound I-70), about 2.5 miles. If you come from the west, you must use exit 234, Downieville. Take a right before the post office, Mill Creek Road. up about 2.5 miles. This has easy climbing for introducing new climbers to the sport. It is South-facing and warm on sunny days. Approach time to the base of the climbs is ~5 minutes and 10-15 minutes to the top for TR.

Per the approach/driving beta as described isn't the best. 2.5 miles from the post office will actually put you in a little lot where the road turns from pavement to dirt, and with private land up the dirt road. And this is well past the cragging....

More accurately, it's about 2 miles up the road from the post office, right uphill from a steep, narrow section of road where you can see a cliff on the left, across the creek. The Mill Creek Crag won't be that visible as you're driving up because, well, it's right above you -- like only 100 feet above and back a little from the road, up and right (to the east) across from this aforementioned crag.

Per Da Burger: there is no parking lot and you are not allowed to park on county maintained roads in Clear Creek County. This road is very tight and the locals have been submitting complaints to the county due to traffic issues and cars/firetrucks not being able to get through because of people parking on the road. Be sure to carpool as this crag has become very popular as we don't want access taken away.

The sheriff's office ticketed all cars parked here on 10/12/24. Don't let your tires be touching the asphalt when you park

Addendum: look for the National Forest signs on the right after a sharp right turn. The crag is 200 yards up from there, look high on the right side of the slope.

L->R:

A. Remote (chance of) Learning, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

B. Sacrum-blue, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

C. Corona Alley, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.

D1. The Dirty Boulevard, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.

D2. Dihedral, 8+ R, 1p, 60', gear or TR.

E. Face (left of Freeway), 9, 1p, TR.

F. Bulge to Groove, 10, 1p, TR.

G. Freeway, 8-10, 1-2p, 30'-60'?, gear or TR.

H. Face, 7, 1p, gear.

I. Deflator-Mouse, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.

J. The Wright Stuff, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.

K. Big Dreams , 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

L. Slot Machine, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

M. Quarantine-age Mutant COVID Crushers, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.

N. Feline Antics, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.

O. The Floating Air Biscuit, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.

P1. Joint Therapy, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

P2. Groper, 10, 1p, 70', TR, now bolts.

Q. Honey Pot, 9 or 10-, 1p, 70', gear or TR.

R. Chimney, 5, 1p, 70', TR.

S. Jug Haul, 10, 1p, 50', bolt & gear or TR.

T. Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack), 9+, 1p, 60', gear or TR.

U. Scantily Trad, 12, 1p, 65', bolts & gear.

V. Lou Reed, 12 A0, 1p, 65',bolts & gear.

W. Eye of the Tiger, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

X. Neat Petite, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Y. Sweet Petite, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

Z. Turning Point, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.

AA. The Pit of Despair, 9, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.

Caring for our crag

This crag has turned into a destination for many out of town people and as many as 5 or 6 parties climbing are there at a time, especially weekends. As you would expect when this happens, there are those that respect the natural environment and those who are oblivious or even abuse it. Now that Dumont has become popular; we have also the consequences of popularity, "people".

Let's, as climbers and stewards of our beloved environment, respect our land so we can all have a good experience here. People and climbers bring their dogs, the dogs run around, and many are uncontrolled. Also, we find dog and human poop near and even on the trails and at the base of the climbs. The crag is on National Forest land. Please "take out with you what you brought, clean up after your dog, clean up after yourself (including toilet paper), etc. Let's be people who are courteous to each other. In other words, "please leave as little trace of your presence as possible."

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 57 ● The Dirty Boulevard Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 72 ● Honey Pot Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 38 ● Corona Alley Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 58 ● Joint Therapy Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 37 ● The Floating Air Biscuit Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 63 ● Feline Antics Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 38 ● Quarantine-age Mutant COVID Crus… Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 21 ● Sacrum-blue Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 43 ● Jug Haul Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 9 ● Deflator-Mouse Trad, Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 101 ● Sweet Petite Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 25 ● Turning Point Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 45 ● Scantily Trad Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 86 ● Eye of the Tiger Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 40 ● Lou Reed Sport