Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Routes in Mill Creek Crag
|Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 60 ft|
|FA:||Diana Rogers & Harald Harb, October 2013|
|Page Views:||779 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Diana Rogers on Oct 24, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionStart about 20 feet to the right of Freeway on the left side of a large, slightly-detached block. Pull up onto the top of the block. The crux is to get from this stance over the bulge until you are established in the dihedral. Stem up to another stance below the small arete, place some pro, reach up onto the face left of the arete to clip a bolt, then choose your path to the top: swing left onto the face for an easier out, stay right in the dihedral for a little more work. There's an easy stance to reach the two-bolt anchor.
Rap from here, or hop up on the large, sunny ledge and take Upper Freeway to its bolted anchor (gear required).
Richard Wright has also TR'd the left-wall crack/arete variation just after the crux. That version would use the three bolts we added but would need more and/or different gear. It's quite a bit harder than the stem version.
LocationThis is twenty feet right of Freeway. Follow cairns up to the base of Freeway from Mill Creek Rd. Deflator-Mouse starts on the right end of the same, waist-high ledge as the large, right-facing dihedral of Freeway.
ProtectionThree bolts, two near the lower crux, one below the anchors. Two-bolt anchor with rap rings. You'll need a small assortment of thin to finger to hand-size cams.
If you are concerned about on-sighting at this grade, we recommend stick clipping the second bolt. Make sure you clip that draw before you try to get over the bulge.