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Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Diana Rogers & Harald Harb, October 2013
Page Views: 779 total, 15/month
Shared By: Diana Rogers on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start about 20 feet to the right of Freeway on the left side of a large, slightly-detached block. Pull up onto the top of the block. The crux is to get from this stance over the bulge until you are established in the dihedral. Stem up to another stance below the small arete, place some pro, reach up onto the face left of the arete to clip a bolt, then choose your path to the top: swing left onto the face for an easier out, stay right in the dihedral for a little more work. There's an easy stance to reach the two-bolt anchor.

Rap from here, or hop up on the large, sunny ledge and take Upper Freeway to its bolted anchor (gear required).

Richard Wright has also TR'd the left-wall crack/arete variation just after the crux. That version would use the three bolts we added but would need more and/or different gear. It's quite a bit harder than the stem version.

Location

This is twenty feet right of Freeway. Follow cairns up to the base of Freeway from Mill Creek Rd. Deflator-Mouse starts on the right end of the same, waist-high ledge as the large, right-facing dihedral of Freeway.

Protection

Three bolts, two near the lower crux, one below the anchors. Two-bolt anchor with rap rings. You'll need a small assortment of thin to finger to hand-size cams.
If you are concerned about on-sighting at this grade, we recommend stick clipping the second bolt. Make sure you clip that draw before you try to get over the bulge.
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11b
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11b
The key hold, a protruding rock point on the lower face, that is the key to pull onto the top of the first block and the clipping hold, broke. It is still mostly there, but not with as positive a catch. Aug 12, 2016
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11b
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11b
Donovan, thanks, I must have missed it. There is also a jammed cam behind the big flake where you would put in the first piece on the climb, I gave up trying to get it out.
Richard has also put up many good climbs in this area, now we can get some sending done. Mar 18, 2015
Donovan Allen
Subaru
Donovan Allen   Subaru
Hey Harald, great route. I still have yet to send this clean. I was up there about two weeks ago and found your red c3 laying in the dirt on the approach trail. I put it back in, but I fear first time visitors may booty that. -D Sep 2, 2014
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11b
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11b
Beta intense after 2nd clip. Clip the 2nd hanger on the way to standing on the big block. The gear, "cam" that is placed, is for your back-up if you miss clipping the 2nd bolt, so please leave it in place. Oct 26, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11
Super. Deflator-Mouse is much more steep and continuous than the photo might suggest. I thought the climbing was cool and pumpy. This terrific line is definitely worth a burn if you are at the MCC. Unfortunately, the lame photographer that caught Harald's lead missed Diana' RP burn entirely. Will try again if I can. Oct 25, 2013