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Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: RMWright, Dr. ABS, October, 2012
Page Views: 1,352 total · 19/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

With apologies to Harald and Diane, this fully bolted route turned out to be an excellent addition to the Mill Creek Crag. Start at the base of an incipient seam on porcelain white, bullet hard, granite. Climbing on this gently overhanging wall is continuous and interesting throughout. Difficulties ease back to 5.11 after the fourth clip, but a hard move lurks right at the anchor. The crux climbing is in the first four clips, and two options exist. One can chase the seam directly (hard) or power out right to a right-facing dihedral (better and a couple of letter grades easier). I thought that the climbing on Sweet Petite was superb, a real kick to solve, and well worth the effort.

NB: We jumped on SP at the end of June on a very hot day, and the start felt much harder than when we climbed it earlier in the year. Clearly, the good friction obtained in cooler weather makes a big difference on this fine grained granite.

Location

This route is 100 feet right of the Roof Rack. There is a newly cairned trail immediately across from the pullout used to access the Mill Creek Crag.

Protection

Nine draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Nine draws in 60 ft seems like a lot of steel; however, there are couple of places where a fall could result in a nasty encounter. Sweet Petite is bolted so that there should be no need to stick-clip the start. Oct 22, 2012
Looks like a great line! Aug 4, 2013
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
The rock is terrific, bullet hard, and clean. Aug 5, 2013
Dougald MacDonald
  5.11c/d
Dougald MacDonald  
  5.11c/d
Very fine route. The rock quality deteriorates in the top third, but it doesn't detract from the overall goodness. Staying right for the boulder problem at the bottom seems the only logical approach and is super-fun. Hang on for a burly finish until the final jug (above the anchor). Jul 11, 2014
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
The two blocks above the chains were pulled off Sunday (July 13, 2014). I don't think they were ever a problem, but tagging the last hold above the chains feels a bit more comforting now. Pulling these off took double crowbars, both extended, and jimmying some rocks in the gaps just to tip them up enough to use the second crowbar to lever them off the cliff. Jul 14, 2014
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
This is a superb route that is very well-protected. The start looks like it is going to be hard as hell, but the feet somehow work out perfectly. Really nice job on this one, Richard. Jul 6, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Thanks, Slim. Unexpectedly, Dumont can produce some pretty nice rock, well-featured and solid. I didn't know it when this route went in, but Diana Rogers had her eye on it as well with exactly the same idea in mind. Jul 7, 2015
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11d PG13
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11d PG13
Richard did a great job putting up climbs here, and this is one of the best. He's right, Diana Rogers has this climb down, nailed. We have been on it for a couple of weeks. Hugely fun and very challenging. The bottom moves are really balance-intensive and thin. We go the direct approach, using the diagonal crack. Going out right put lots of rope off the line and puts a huge swing into a fall to the ground. Like many of the 5-10 routes on the crag, the toughest moves are off the ground to the first clip. So, if you aren't absolutely sure of yourself, bring a stick clip. Great climb, excellent moves, well bolted. Great warm-up for the 5-12 routes to the left. Jul 21, 2016

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