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Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Harald Harb and Diana Rogers
Page Views: 312 total, 4/month
Shared By: Harald Harb on Jun 20, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

There are many options to make this climb, rate from a 9 to a 10c depending on which variation you climb.

Good cam placements are available, but be prepared for 9+ difficulty for a trad lead.

Location

This is located in the corner as high as you can walk, on the right side of the wall parallel with road, follow the trail, 100 feet up from a parking pull out. Hike back east until you see an obvious draw up to the rock face.

Protection

There are chains at top, and it can be hiked around all the way over on the right side of the crag and top roped.

Photos

Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
My first red point was on gear, then I decided to bolt it for a more moderate warm-up for beginners to the area. Sep 24, 2017
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
I remember thinking this would be a lot better as a sport route than a gear route. Good upgrade in my opinion. Sep 23, 2016
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
Yes, I bolted it in early September. I love this as a warm-up for Sweat Petit and Turn Again, and it's long enough and tough enough on the left side of the bolts for some challenging moves. If you want to lead it, there is a more detailed description under the next photo. Sep 22, 2016
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.9
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.9


Looks like as of 9/11/2016 somebody retro-bolted this route, about 7 or 8 new bolts. Appears to have been bolted over the weekend from the drill debris left on the route. Sep 12, 2016
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
At first I really disliked this route. I would definitely call it R rated. The rock quality is often iffy, where you can get gear it is often in not so great rock, or in places where it isn't really helpful (waist level above a ledge, protecting easy climbing, etc). Also, the gear is laid out such that it makes for some rope management and route-choosing questions. As a TR, this is actually quite fun though. Jul 20, 2015
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
Honey Pot is a fun, great route for a solid 5.10 trad leader, (5-11 sport leader) it has many variations possible, so make it as hard as you want from 5.9 to 5.10b. Check it out on top rope if you are unsure; two chain anchors are up top, access from an easy hike around the crag to the right. Aug 26, 2011