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Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Diana Rogers
Page Views: 576 total, 8/month
Shared By: Harald Harb on Aug 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

There are jugs at the beginning, protected by a bolt, for the bottom crux. There is great gear after start, then hold on small sharp crimps to the chains.

As Richard says it's dirty and breakable rock near the top and very thin.

Location

This is on the right side of the huge corner at the crag.

Protection

Small pro to #1 cams.

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.10d R
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.10d R
Jug Haul could turn into quite a nice route, but as it stands, it needs further work. The route needs a lot of cleaning and for several reasons, not the least of which is safety. The final moves are protected by mid to large size cams placed under a stack of loose blocks. Until this area has been cleaned of all the loose material, it is unlikely that the cams would hold a fall. The final headwall is very dirty, as are the horrizontal flake/seams leading up to it, so it is not even clear where the route is intended to go, let alone hold pro very well. Harald mentions abundant gear after the opening bolt, but I found very little that was trustworthy for quite a long way, long enough that you climb well into the groundfall zone. A bolt above the opening crack, which does take good gear, would solve most of the concern. The route is so dirty above the ledge that it is distasteful, and, again, it is not clear where the route is intended to go. Straight up, out left, out right each provides a climbable option, but these range from easy to hard with no clear idea of what was intended. For anyone else intending to climb Jug Haul, I would recommend a TR run if only to suss out the gear from above the opening crack to the headwall above the ledge.

N.B.: as of 7/18/2013 the nut on the opening bolt has been tightened only by hand! I found the hanger spinning when I started up and did not have a wrench with me. Jul 18, 2013