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Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Harald Harb
Page Views: 732 total · 9/month
Shared By: Harald Harb on Aug 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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You have many options from the chain anchors. The dihedral crack is a 5.7 to 5.8 lead on gear. The top rope has numerous possibilities with variations for the top pitch with 5.11 bouldering.

There is a crack on the top more vertical wall that has an old pin in it for the belayer. The crack goes 5.10 with small gear.


From Mill Creek Rd. Dumont, drive up to the National Forest sign, about 2.2 miles, the road is paved but gets very narrow. Pull off on the left side directly across from the crag. You will pass a huge, rock bulge on your left on the way up, it's 1/2 mile further on left or north side of the road. These is room for three car maximum parking.


Top rope or gear. Bottom crack small gear about 5 pieces, can be done in two pitches.


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Harald Harb
Harald Harb   Dumont
Great for beginning climbers on top rope, watch for a rope swing off the anchors for the second pitch only, after the ledge. The easy dihedral crack is left of the anchors/chains, therefore the rope swing.

The upper direct route on the vertical face is 5.10 trad lead, with medium to super small gear; key upper placement. Look for a small seam on the left, I used a brass, micro wire nut on the left to protect the top out move. It held as I slipped off my first attempt. Aug 26, 2011
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
To elaborate a bit further on Harald's description, the 5.7 trad crack described as "Freeway" goes to the big ledge that is about halfway to the top anchors. Continuing straight up the second half is the 5.10 option that follows a double crack, which is nice climbing and the logical extension of the lower dihedral. In the photo, my feet are about 8 ft above the ledge, which is hidden from view. The easier route from the ledge to the anchors (5.6?) starts about 15 ft left from the double crack, up the dihedral crack that angles further left and up about 25 ft followed by a 3rd class scramble at the top back right to the anchors. With either option for the top half, the leader can lower back to the base with a 50m rope.
Apr 28, 2012
Harald Harb
Harald Harb   Dumont
To the right of the top crack on the upper pitch, are numerous TR bouldering type options that we have worked on top rope. It's a short but more difficult pitch, goes 5.11 and provides thin finger edges and Gastons. Great training with fun moves. Jun 18, 2012
I would call this a 5.10 route, with the logical direct finish up the thin and excellent headwall. The easy "second pitch," escaping left after the fun 5.8 corner, seems more like a variation. Done straight up, this is a challenging and fine pitch, with very good pro as long as you can hang around to place it. Jul 11, 2014
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
Fun little climb! Did Freeway then the upper section as two pitches - the large ledge and having a newer belayer made me nervous about decking on it. Couldn't get good gear to protect the topout move, so I backed off and climbed to the anchors from about 25 feet climber's right, on jugs to a roof, finding just enough gear to keep it safe and traverse over. That went at about 5.5-5.6. Jul 22, 2018

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