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Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: RMWright, Fall 2013 FFA, Mark Anderson, July, 2015
Page Views: 1,206 total, 25/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

It's always momentous to loose one of our iconoclasts, and Lou Reed died in October 2013 after 40 years in the RR business. While I was never a great fan of his group the Velvet Underground, I loved Lou Reed. LR, the route, takes a very steep course through the roof system via mostly 5.11 climbing before a very hard boulder crux getting past bolt 5. A cam placement is very nice in the small roof above bolt 6. Things stay solid at 5.11 above bolt 6 and deliver a final big move at the last bolt (5.10+). LR is very continuous and does not let up until you get to the chains. The rock is largely excellent top to bottom.

Location

Start 25 feet right of Scantily Trad.

Protection

Seven quickdraws, a mid-size cam (a green link cam works or #2 or #1.5 Friend), and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
I thought 12c/d as well. I'm 5'4". Very good route though! Jul 22, 2016
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Thanks, Adam. I would love to see the beta that brought it to 5.12. The way I have been trying, and I'm 5'7", it still seems harder than 12+. However, I have been trying to camp out on one the crimpers in mid-crux, a definite no-no for this route. Let's see how consensus shakes down; a lot depends on what is used for reference. I thought the crux was harder than Anarchitect or Black and Tan in Clear Creek, a tad harder than Rainbow Wall, but comparable to The Web in Eldo. On the other hand, when you stand up above the crux on Lou Reed you get a nearly complete shakeout, so Lou Reed certainly lacks the continuity of the The Web. Despite this, the crux is clearly several letter grades harder than Sucking My Will to Live, Ten Digit Dialing, or even Y2K in Clear Creek. Aug 24, 2015
Adam Stewart
  5.12c/d
Adam Stewart  
  5.12c/d
First off, Richard, thanks for bolting this great route. I really enjoyed every move of this. My friend and I worked this route today and found different solutions. I think I was trying the original jump, drive-by method, but with my height (6'0"), the grade feels somewhere between 12c and 12d. I'm sure for shorter climbers this is much harder, so the 13b grade is well understood. My shorter friend found a really nice, high right foot in order to go to the jug sidepull and managed to flash the route. It seems the solution is in the 5.12 range, but nevertheless, it's great and I hope many people get to try it! Aug 23, 2015
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Nice work, Mono! It's fitting that Lou Reed was recently inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame as well. I'd love to check out this area, looks cool. Jul 2, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Terrific. Good for you! I've been able to dog through the dyno using the crispy edge under the bulge but never reach the incut in one continuous move. My own assessment was close to but a tad harder than The Web in Eldo, largely for the footless crux. I was thinking 13c, but I can certainly live with 13b. I think you just knocked Mill Creek into a new age. I'm absolutely thrilled. Jul 2, 2015
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13b
This is a great find--gymnastic moves on good rock in a beautiful setting. Thanks to Richard for the vision and for opening it up. The crux for me was a footless drive-by move to a really good incut edge at the lip of the big bulge--very cool. Jul 2, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Out of the chaos a sequence has begun to emerge for Lou Reed; but still a long way from a RP. LR is hard. In rough terms and with the current beta, I think that comparing it to "The Web" in Eldo is not far off the mark. No single move is particularly reach-dependent, so execution through the overlaps becomes the primary crux. The crux transition hold is a nasty little bugger dubbed "Steve McClure", because it's hard to imagine moving off it without Steve McClure's crimp power. No individual move on "The Web" is as hard as moving off SM to an equally nasty half pad slot, and this is not the end of the crux. After a dozen days on and mostly off LR, I think the full link up will tick in a couple of letter grades harder than "The Web", and it is steeper and longer than "The Web". I've been working LR solo using a jumar and GriGri, and it has been my experience that shifting to RP attempts commonly drops the estimated grade by at least a letter; so there is still some uncertainty about the real grade. Like all projects at Dumont, if anyone else has a hankering to give it a run, just move my fixed line aside, but leave it in place when you're finished. Lou Reed is hard; too bad it just begs to be climbed. Jul 7, 2014
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Patrick Burwick and I had a chance to jump on Lou Reed last weekend after ticking off a bunch of the new lines on MCC. While I still think that LR is super hard, we did uncover an improbable undercling in the main roof that unlocks some of the beast. Helps, but did not free up the A0. May 8, 2014
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Lou Reed got squeezed in between snow storms in the middle of November. It was actually bolted while the snow was falling. The crux getting past bolt 5 remains an A0 project at this point, but it provides great incentive to tone up the dynamic bouldering moves this winter. Looks like a lot of time on the campus board at DBC. The redpoint crux will be a solid number grade or more harder than climbing before and after bolt 5. The crux is a dynamic power crimp and throw through a steep bulge. It starts on good feet, but they are lost quickly.

One note of caution: the crimp at bolt 6 is thin and could be crushed if it stood upon. After standing up above bolt 6, it is best to stand on the super solid ledge and not on the crimp. Nov 20, 2013