Bulge to Groove
Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Mill Creek Crag
|Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 80 ft|
|FA:||Diana Rogers? Harald Harb?|
|Page Views:||113 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is another line on which to play to extend your visit to Mill Creek Crag. It catches your eye as you stand below Freeway and ask yourself if this is doable. Yes, it is, but protecting it on lead safely is not as clear, since some of the features you would use for your hands might be the same ones you'd use for your pro.
Start up similarly as for Freeway, but veer left under the bulge utilizing nice underclings. The chunk of rock on the corner/arete that you may use wiggles, but it didn't come out easily. Pull out to the left of the arete, move up to a stance. Small cams could be set in the groove. Continue up to the left of the groove up a few feet, then move right into the groove and up to the ledge. From the ledge, you can finish on the balancy 5.10 double cracks to the anchors.
LocationThis starts as for Freeway and quickly veers left.
ProtectionYou can TR this off of the anchors for Freeway. It is likely you could lead this on gear to a #1 Camalot size with an emphasis on smaller cams (note, I haven't tried this yet).
Note, there is no fixed anchor on the ledge 40 feet up.