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Routes in Mill Creek Crag

Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eye of the Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freeway T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joint Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug Haul T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lou Reed T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slot Machine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Petite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Diana Rogers? Harald Harb?
Page Views: 113 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is another line on which to play to extend your visit to Mill Creek Crag. It catches your eye as you stand below Freeway and ask yourself if this is doable. Yes, it is, but protecting it on lead safely is not as clear, since some of the features you would use for your hands might be the same ones you'd use for your pro.

Start up similarly as for Freeway, but veer left under the bulge utilizing nice underclings. The chunk of rock on the corner/arete that you may use wiggles, but it didn't come out easily. Pull out to the left of the arete, move up to a stance. Small cams could be set in the groove. Continue up to the left of the groove up a few feet, then move right into the groove and up to the ledge. From the ledge, you can finish on the balancy 5.10 double cracks to the anchors.

Location

This starts as for Freeway and quickly veers left.

Protection

You can TR this off of the anchors for Freeway. It is likely you could lead this on gear to a #1 Camalot size with an emphasis on smaller cams (note, I haven't tried this yet).

Note, there is no fixed anchor on the ledge 40 feet up.

Photos

Harald Harb
Dumont
Harald Harb   Dumont
If you go straight up as far as possible and then left onto the face, it's a good pull more than 5.8, but there are many variations on this Freeway Wall. I call it a wall because there are so many options from one set of chains. Aug 16, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Interestingly, Doug found a low traverse to the arete which made it feel 5.8 to him. Jun 19, 2012
Harald Harb
Dumont
Harald Harb   Dumont
This is a fun start for stronger climbers. It can be protected with cams up to the exit onto the left slab. After that, you are on your own. The left slab is nice climbing about 5.9 but unprotected. Diana has first ascent. We did it on TR yesterday, it's a nice variation if you are top roping Freeway. Jun 18, 2012