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Routes in Tan Corridor

4 Finger Discount T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
80 Grit S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black and Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chalkdust Tourture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crushing My Gear to Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ddong Chim! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do The Kegel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ginger Snap S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jerry the Gnome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muricuh S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Never Named, No. 39 T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Opportunity Missed S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Rain S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef On It! S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolling Black Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Three Bite Burrito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tickle My Blossom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Turkey Time S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Staunton T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Jason Haas, Mike Morin, Kevin Stricker, Eric Schmeer and Dave Montgomery
Page Views: 1,437 total, 26/month
Shared By: Alex Andrews on May 27, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Falcon Closures Details

Description

Start right of large boulder, follow a black streak, climb up a featured face to a bulge, then make some slab moves to steep upper headwall crux. The guide says do a big toss to a big jug, (more like a dead point to a pocket) but the lower part of the hold is sloper. There is a pocket above it.

Protection

11 bolts.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.10-
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.10-
IMHO, this is the best 5.10 here. Sep 18, 2017
Scott Hunt
Golden, CO
  5.10c
Scott Hunt   Golden, CO
  5.10c
It's got everything you love or hate. As others said, work your feet up at the end before going for that left bucket. Jul 3, 2016
SeanMc123
  5.10
SeanMc123  
  5.10
Wonderful climb! There are three distinct sections. I was very surprised after manteling up above the initial face that's clearly visible from the ground to find 3 bolts on a slab topped with a jug headwall. The climb begins with interesting rock and great edges, then I grabbed a monster jug out left and stood up to the slab. The slab is thought-provoking and climbs for just enough to get into the groove before the headwall arrives. The top headwall offers a variety of jugs with the climbing getting slightly less obvious to gain the anchor. My only advice for the onsight up top is to dig deep. Also be aware that when I climbed it the third bolt was a slight spinner. It looked solid to my untrained eye, and it is not in a particularly difficult section. Jun 10, 2016
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10c
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10c
Another vote for no dyno needed, not even a deadpoint. Work on getting your feet high while you have your hands on a jug. I'm 5'7" with 0+ ape index, and I was able to reach the pocket statically with room to spare. Oct 12, 2015
Chick on Crack
Superior, CO
 
Chick on Crack   Superior, CO
 
Found the pockets, but not the "big jugs". Insert TWSS comment here. This route re-sparked my enthusiasm for climbing! Friend that led, a seasoned climber, ran out of steam at the crux and broke a hold off around the second bolt.

(I agree with Leo, footwork is key. Enjoy the features, no need to dyno through them.) Jul 14, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10-
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10-
FWIW, you don't have to dyno. This is not a boy climb. Footwork really makes it not strenuous. Sunglasses are not recommended. May 29, 2013