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Routes in Tan Corridor

4 Finger Discount T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
80 Grit S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black and Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chalkdust Tourture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crushing My Gear to Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ddong Chim! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do The Kegel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ginger Snap S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jerry the Gnome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muricuh S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Never Named, No. 39 T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Opportunity Missed S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Rain S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef On It! S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolling Black Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Three Bite Burrito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tickle My Blossom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Turkey Time S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Staunton T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jason Haas & Dave Montgomery
Page Views: 829 total, 16/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Aug 31, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is not my route, but I'm collecting the whole set. The 1st bolt is a ways up, but the climbing is 5.5. We placed a small cam between this and the next bolt. There was a bail loop off the 4th bolt. I got a smallish wire in between it and the 5th bolt. There is interesting climbing around up there. It seemed more like 5.9+ and perhaps PG-13 (Maybe it was the rain, but I thought I was on Crushing My Gear to Climb.). See Monty's comment.)

See what you think.

Location

This is 30 feet uphill left of Chalk Dust Torture: left of a lone tree, in and just right of a black streak. The top of the climb is in a vague, left-facing corner through a roof, and top out through the obvious water streak.

Protection

5 bolts and some small gear worked for us. The book said up to a #3 Camalot, but neither of us found a place for it. There are 2 anchor bolts with chains.

Photos

Don Morris
Denver, CO
  5.8
Don Morris   Denver, CO
  5.8
Fun climb when dry. Sep 20, 2014
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10a
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10a
Supplement gear for us was Metolius #1, #2, and small nut up high. The bail webbing on the 4th bolt was dangerous, we cut it off. Not only was there burn marks from somebody lowering, but the knots were only a series of overhands. Wet, partially run-out, but exciting. Aug 4, 2014
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Thanks! I updated my description. Sep 3, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10-
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.10-
I think this is actually "Never named" FA by Jason Haas and myself, listed as #39 in the book. I could definitely see it feeling sandbagged at 5.7! We figured the route was 10-. Crushing My Gear to Climb is just right of this route and has no bolts or anchor. Sep 1, 2013