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Routes in Tan Corridor

4 Finger Discount T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
80 Grit S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black and Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chalkdust Tourture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crushing My Gear to Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Knight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ddong Chim! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Do The Kegel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ginger Snap S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jerry the Gnome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muricuh S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Never Named, No. 39 T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Opportunity Missed S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Rain S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reef On It! S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolling Black Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Three Bite Burrito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tickle My Blossom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Turkey Time S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Staunton T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: D. Montgomery & J. Haas, 7/12
Page Views: 2,789 total, 51/month
Shared By: Monty on May 21, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures Details

Description

The name says it all. This was the route that initially caught my eye and remains as one of the best in the park! Bouldery and sustained is the name of the game.

Boulder your way through a roof past 4 bolts eventually gaining a finger crack that peters out just below the anchor. One more bolt protects the slabby finale.

Location

This is just uphill from where the trail meets the upper corridor. It is the leftmost of the 12s.

Protection

5 bolts, doubles from 0.3 to 0.5, (1x) #1 Camalot. A red c3 is very helpful for the 11+/12a sequence above the 4th bolt.

Photos

SCherry
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
SCherry   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
This thing has cleaned up really nicely, and the addition of bolt #4 makes it very safe now. My rack was red Camalot (largest) to red c3. If you have the gear wired, a couple of smaller stoppers work really well in a couple of spots too. Aug 28, 2017
Ben Sachs
  5.12b/c
Ben Sachs  
  5.12b/c
Really nice route, not chossy at all despite previous comments. I found it easier than Murica and did not feel it deserved 12+. Perhaps slightly height-dependent at crux. Bring a light rack to #2 c4 heavy on the 0.3-0.5 size pieces. I thought this one was the best on the wall. Jul 7, 2016
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
 
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
 
This route is very good. A long pitch with a snappy boulder problem followed by a stretch of super fun crack climbing. Area classic. Thanks for putting this one in. Oct 9, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
WTS now has 4 bolts through the initial bouldery crux. The additional bolt was approved by the SSPFHRG in June, and I installed the bolt yesterday. This makes WTS a much safer lead. The finger crack after the crux is some of the best climbing at Staunton.... On a side note, you can easily set up a top rope on the route from No Opportunity Missed if you want to scope the gear and hang draws. Enjoy! Jul 10, 2014
Pinklebear
  5.12c R
Pinklebear  
  5.12c R
I think this is actually an awesome pitch, especially the stretch along the finger crack on the upper half. It just needs travel, so all the crispiest part of the patina nipples can snap off (check out all the mini-pink scars on the more-traveled routes on the wall; it's just a delicate granite at first). The one thing that struck me is that this is a very committing lead, onsight from the ground-up. The "TCU nest" you can build after busting the hard crux past the third bolt was not super-bomber to my mind; I hung on it but was unwilling to commit to the moves above, so I swung over while lowering off Muricuh and sussed out that sequence, which is hard enough (11+/12a) getting up to where the crack really starts. If that nest blew or even if it didn't, the ground is pretty close. Maybe there is a little nut higher, but I didn't want to dink with it.

IMO, a fourth bolt in lieu of that gear nest would make the route more in line, protection-wise, with the other routes on this wall, and then it might get more traffic and hence cleaner. If not, for me at least it was a fun headpoint. Jul 2, 2013
acouncell
Estes Park, CO
  5.12+
acouncell   Estes Park, CO
  5.12+
Overall, you guys have done an awesome job with the routes in Tan Corridor, and most climbs readily deserve the stars they're given. I found this route a notable exception. From start to finish, footholds crumbled and handholds snapped off. It seemed more chossy than its neighbors and, compared to Muricah, is much harder. Seemed at least .12+. I'm sure it was better/easier at some point, but it has apparently changed since the FA. Still, I'm not complaining; this little area is a gem, but I just don't think this route is four stars anymore, IMO. Jun 30, 2013