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Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Ben Kiessel/Bill Grasse. FFA: Ben K.
Page Views: 523 total, 9/month
Shared By: Bill Grasse on Apr 25, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a line just to the left of the old [gear] route: "We Don't Need Another Hero." We have been looking at it for a while, so we put it up.

Fun face climbing leads to a couple of large moves right, then finishing on some tricky moves to catch Texas Sucks. Finish on the top moves of Texas Sucks, and if psyched, take it into Sweeney's for a full value 5.12 pitch!

We put this up as an option to connect to Sweeney's, but you can choose a number of different options after the bolts.

Location

It is 15' right of Texas Sucks.

Protection

A double set from blue Aliens to #1 Camalots ought to do. Bring many runners and three draws as well.

Photos

Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
Yep, We Don't.. is to the right. Also just left of the start of Easy to Remember- on the outside corner. Feb 14, 2016
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
Fun. I climbed it to the anchors of Texas Sucks/Easy to Remember. I found appropriate gear the entire way: a yellow C3 deep in a pocket just after pulling up onto the no-hands rest, and a 0.4 C4 on the top part of Easy to Remember. Will definitely do again. Jan 29, 2016
Bill Grasse
Carbondale, CO.
 
Bill Grasse   Carbondale, CO.
 
FYI: some rocks have disappeared from the top of this route making it more exciting than when we put it up. I would definitely say it has an R rating now. Nov 2, 2013
Ben Kiessel  
 
Tim were we correct in thinking that this was to the left of "We Don't Need Another Hero?". Or is this "We Don't Need Another Hero?" May 14, 2013
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
'Bout time someone made this into a legit route. Maybe y'all should add another bolt or two, get rid of that pesky "R" thing. People would do it. Just sayin'.
Peace. May 7, 2013