Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Ben Kiessel/Bill Grasse. FFA: Ben K.
Page Views: 575 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bill Grasse on Apr 25, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is a line just to the left of the old [gear] route: "We Don't Need Another Hero." We have been looking at it for a while, so we put it up.

Fun face climbing leads to a couple of large moves right, then finishing on some tricky moves to catch Texas Sucks. Finish on the top moves of Texas Sucks, and if psyched, take it into Sweeney's for a full value 5.12 pitch!

We put this up as an option to connect to Sweeney's, but you can choose a number of different options after the bolts.

Location

It is 15' right of Texas Sucks.

Protection

A double set from blue Aliens to #1 Camalots ought to do. Bring many runners and three draws as well.

Photos

Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
'Bout time someone made this into a legit route. Maybe y'all should add another bolt or two, get rid of that pesky "R" thing. People would do it. Just sayin'.
Peace. May 7, 2013
Ben Kiessel  
 
Tim were we correct in thinking that this was to the left of "We Don't Need Another Hero?". Or is this "We Don't Need Another Hero?" May 14, 2013
Bill Grasse
Carbondale, CO.
  5.11a
Bill Grasse   Carbondale, CO.
  5.11a
FYI: some rocks have disappeared from the top of this route making it more exciting than when we put it up. I would definitely say it has an R rating now. Nov 2, 2013
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
Fun. I climbed it to the anchors of Texas Sucks/Easy to Remember. I found appropriate gear the entire way: a yellow C3 deep in a pocket just after pulling up onto the no-hands rest, and a 0.4 C4 on the top part of Easy to Remember. Will definitely do again. Jan 29, 2016
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
Yep, We Don't.. is to the right. Also just left of the start of Easy to Remember- on the outside corner. Feb 14, 2016