Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Jay Shambo?
Page Views: 8,231 total · 40/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: The Kingpin Boulder is closed to climbing Details


Per Darren Wong200243938: this boulder has tipped over recently!

Location: on Hank's Boulder. See "Hank's Lunge" for more detail on finding boulder.

This problem starts low on the black face and climbs the crimps that are directly right of an arete. Scarface is left of the problem "Fuck You Finger" which climbs black face to the two obvious slopers 7 feet up the wall.

Start sitdown with right hand on small crimp. Move left and up to more crimps, to sloping lip, and then up and right to decent hold. Topout and descend tree.

This is a great, little, granite, crimper problem.


Flat landing.
Brandon English  
There is also a V8 version known as Natural Tattoo that uses the same holds and goes by the same sequence. It is way harder than Freaks of Nature V14 (on the Freaky Boulder, Lower Chaos). Oct 6, 2008
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Nice one, Brandon.... Oct 7, 2008
Andrew Vojslavek  
If Perch is V6... Kahuna is V5... what is this rated? Nov 3, 2008
Rumor has it one of the start holds broke not too long ago. Didn't affect the problem really, just not as sharp now. Apr 7, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
vimeo.com/32979674 Dec 2, 2011
Hey Climbers!

The Daily Beta here! My buddy and I have created some short beta videos for ultra-classic moderates in Northern Colorado and wherever we get the chance to go crush! Let us know if you found these videos helpful, interesting, entertaining, or (perhaps) unnecessary or even a joy-kill.

Please feel free to comment on our youtube page or e-mil us at dailybetamedia@gmail.com. We really appreciate the feedback! Keep crushing it out there, y'all!

youtube.com/watch?v=kIflOdA… Nov 15, 2016
Darren Wong
San Francisco, CA
Darren Wong   San Francisco, CA
Just to relay information that this boulder has tipped over recently.

imgur.com/IblpR7D May 18, 2018