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Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: GN, LH, 3/2016
Page Views: 395 total, 19/month
Shared By: Gary N on Mar 10, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

3AM Handy is a route inspired by my girlfriend and Valentine's Day. It ascends the face and prow directly to the left and 1/3 of the way up Apple Cider .

There are four ways to start this route. I will describe in more detail what will likely be the most common way to do the route.

Climb the flake up into the small cave on Apple Cider, and place a piece with a runner. Pull out and over the small cave, and head towards the finger crack on the left. Place your 3" piece firmly in the wider crack to keep the rope running smooth. You should be getting nice and warmed up now.

Head left, placing another piece in the finger crack, towards the first bolt. Pull some delicate and balancy moves to get the blood flowing.

Clip the first draw with a runner. Follow the path of least resistance, curving slightly out left and then back in. They do this sometimes. Continue following the bolts to the top. There are a few good spots to rest and take it nice and slow on the way up.

The crux cums as you near the tip of the prow. Find yourself in a very exposed position as you pull over the last bulge and bust it out left to finish on the nice big ledge.

Note: this route can also be done by starting on The Contortionist, Crimpin' and Pimpin', or Chingadero.

Location

This is in the Apple Cider area.

Either start on Apple Cider or one of those hard AF sporto routes to the left.

Protection

If doing the Apple Cider start, I suggest, in BD C4 sizes, a 0.3, 3, 0.4, all with runners. From there, use 1 runner on the first bolt and 6 more quickdraws to the top.

A 60m rope works just fine.

If linking in from one of the other sport routes, bring draws for that route and a single or double length runner for the anchor plus 5 or 6 more draws to the top.

Photos

Fritz N.
Durango, CO
5.11b
Fritz N.   Durango, CO
5.11b
Fun, thought-provoking movement on good stone. A nice addition to the wall. Thanks for bolting this, guys! Apr 25, 2016
Nolan Robertson
  5.11b
Nolan Robertson  
  5.11b
Linking Crimpin' and Pimpin' into this is a little bit covered in lichen, totally managable though. Long run eveything. Apr 7, 2016
Nice description, Gary. Mar 14, 2016