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Routes in Apple Cider
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3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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[Redacted] T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birthday Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Corrections, The T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Directions S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valhalla T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Marcus Garcia and Chris Barlow |
| Page Views: | 2,307 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Christopher Barlow on May 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Like Jonathan Franzen's book by the same name, The Corrections is all about fixing old problems. In this climb's case, the culmination is one of Durango's best and, as of this time, hardest established routes.
The line was aided many years ago; the first ascentionist left only a few studs and a bashie as evidence of his passage. After a reconnaissance on aid, Marcus re-envisioned this line as a free climb and began work. A month later, we had The Corrections.
Begin by climbing Punta Magna through the finger crack bulge. From the stem below Punta Magna's crux, head right along a ramp to a bolt near the arete. Continue up and right with pumpy moves along a slopy rail to a vicious sequence to get into the dihedral. Continue up the dihedral and clip the anchor on the ledge above.
The line was aided many years ago; the first ascentionist left only a few studs and a bashie as evidence of his passage. After a reconnaissance on aid, Marcus re-envisioned this line as a free climb and began work. A month later, we had The Corrections.
Begin by climbing Punta Magna through the finger crack bulge. From the stem below Punta Magna's crux, head right along a ramp to a bolt near the arete. Continue up and right with pumpy moves along a slopy rail to a vicious sequence to get into the dihedral. Continue up the dihedral and clip the anchor on the ledge above.
Protection
Gear from tiny to 1.5" for the first part of Punta Magna then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Due to the traverse out of the corner and around the arete from Punta Magna, one must either use double-rope technique or implement many very long slings and back clean for the gear in the corner.
Due to the traverse out of the corner and around the arete from Punta Magna, one must either use double-rope technique or implement many very long slings and back clean for the gear in the corner.
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