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Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Marcus Garcia and Chris Barlow
Page Views: 1,720 total, 25/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on May 3, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Like Jonathan Franzen's book by the same name, The Corrections is all about fixing old problems. In this climb's case, the culmination is one of Durango's best and, as of this time, hardest established routes.

The line was aided many years ago; the first ascentionist left only a few studs and a bashie as evidence of his passage. After a reconnaissance on aid, Marcus re-envisioned this line as a free climb and began work. A month later, we had The Corrections.

Begin by climbing Punta Magna through the finger crack bulge. From the stem below Punta Magna's crux, head right along a ramp to a bolt near the arete. Continue up and right with pumpy moves along a slopy rail to a vicious sequence to get into the dihedral. Continue up the dihedral and clip the anchor on the ledge above.

Location

Begin as for Punta Magna, but climb right along the ramp about 40 feet up.

Protection

Gear from tiny to 1.5" for the first part of Punta Magna then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Due to the traverse out of the corner and around the arete from Punta Magna, one must either use double-rope technique or implement many very long slings and back clean for the gear in the corner.

Photos

Marcus garcia
Durango, Co.
Marcus garcia   Durango, Co.
Thanks, Eric. I have never understood why some people can not just be happy to just climb. Nov 25, 2012
YES!
I wish there was a like button for Marcus's comment. Marcus has put more money and effort into establishing new routes at East Anus over the past few years than anyone else (not saying he's the only one. Thank you Tim, Bill G, Matt K, and others). The climbing community should feel indebted to Marcus for his contributions, not nit-pick at irrelevant details like shiny bolts.

If you don't like shiny bolts and hanging draws, then you should probably stop climbing all together, because they are EVERYWHERE! Nov 25, 2012
Marcus garcia
Durango, Co.
Marcus garcia   Durango, Co.
Chosspector,
Since it is a huge concern of yours, why don't you paint the shiny bolts. Pandora was put up on lead, and the last thing I was thinking was painting the hangers. The draws are mine, I am working on getting them down...just been busy lately. I have put in a lot of time and money to establish new routes at East Animas, have you? If you have a concern, give me a ring and let's chat. If you do not like them, then do not climb them. Marcus Nov 24, 2012
Ben, you think you are actively projecting those routes? I'm teasing. Just sounded like you weren't sure. Stop projecting and send 'em. Nov 15, 2012
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
I think I am actively projecting all those routes listed with fixed draws. None of the fixed draws up at E. Animas belong to me. I don't really mind hanging my own draws on routes I'm working on, so if people want to take them down, that's fine with me. It can be fairly fun stick clipping from bolt to bolt. Nov 15, 2012
I guess I should clarify that I've relocated to the Front Range (plenty of draws hanging around here), so I don't have a dog in the fight, per se. Since I was part of the FA of The Corrections and I consider it one of my proudest additions to Durango climbing, I have some investment in the conversation.

Personally, I'm less concerned about paint. Eventually, the shine goes away, giving way to rusted, dangerous bolts. I'm sort of kidding.

As far as in-situ draws (as opposed to weather/wear resistant fixed draws), I'm fairly opposed to them, mostly because they're dangerous. Carabiners get sharp edges; webbing gets faded and crusty. Land managers use them as reasons (however ridiculous they may be) to regulate/ban climbing. Mammut just released a call for complete removal of fixed draws due to carabiner edges cutting ropes. Ultimately, leaving these kinds of draws at a cliff like East A trades safety for convenience.

My point here is that I'm not sure the eyesore argument will work for everyone, but the safety/access element seems to be pretty compelling. In other places I've climbed, folks have been known to clean particularly bad in-situ gear (like manky draws) and post a message on MP or at the trailhead to return it to the owner. Nov 15, 2012
Is this the only route at East A that has draws on it, or are there others?

I doubt these draws are "fixed" but are simply left up there, hopefully as project draws (I only know they're not mine). It seems to me that in most cases if someone is actively (like, at least once a week?) working a route, leaving draws on the route is reasonable. When the person is done, the draws should come down.

"Fixed draws," like those at the Golf Wall, are different. They're actually designed to stay in place. Those probably don't have a place at East A. The Corrections could be an exception, since it really is a pain to clean.

Still, I agree with your sentiment: East A really isn't a good cliff to leave a bunch of biners and slings hanging around. Nov 14, 2012
Hell of a nice job, guys! May 25, 2012
If you need to procrastinate even more, here's a brief documentary of the first ascent:

vimeo.com/41333581 May 3, 2012