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Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marcus Garcia and Matt King
Page Views: 2,191 total, 33/month
Shared By: Marcus garcia on Jun 25, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I sat under the shade of the tree below Sweeney's Special after soloing Easy To Remember, and I just sat there in a daze thinking about the people in my life that I have lost. I just looked up at the steep, beautiful, colorful arĂȘte that shot straight up in the sky. It was like looking at a pathway to heaven. I was sitting in the great hall of Odin (a great legendary god). I felt the presence of late, great climbing partner Jimmy Forester and my late nephew who grew as a climber and person before being taken from us. Both of them fought the great battle of life. As I sat there, I could see holds to start appearing. I asked a good friend Matt King to help me put this route up. I wanted to put it up ground up, but it was so steep and nothing to hook. So I rapped in only to realize that after a short rappel I was out in space. So I heel hooked and basically downclimbed/ rappelled in to install each bolt. After ab crushing and bicep pumping work, we had all the bolts in except 1 at the start of the traverse. Matt tried to pull me in but no way. We had to climb Sweeney's Special, and I tensioned way out left to install the last bolt as to make sure it did not take away the Sweeney's Special adventure. 6 tries later each with a biceps and forearm pumping attempt we have Valhalla: where warriors who die as heroes and legends in battle dwell eternally. Thanks, Matt, for the work and support.

Location

It is above Easy To Remember. Either start from the ground for the full adventure or climb up to the tree above Easy To Remember. Climb Sweeney's Special before making the mantel. Bust out left to the first bolt. Use long draws for the first two bolts on the traverse.

Rap the routes. We worked the route from the tree and when lowered down the belayer would throw out some slack to pull you in.

Protection

Gear for Easy To Remember or Texas Sucks then gear for Sweeney's Special and then 5 draws to the top. There is a chain anchor.
Gary N
Durango, CO
Gary N   Durango, CO
How about cable draws on all of the bolts?

If it's possible to camouflage the draws, I've got some great spray paint. I'll even hang 'em if needed. May 3, 2016
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.12c
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.12c
Does anyone disagree with cable draws on the first two bolts of this climb? Apr 28, 2016
DES
Durango, CO
DES   Durango, CO
Finally got on it; Great route! Harder than it looks. Thanks for the hard work getting the bolts in.
-Dan Dec 2, 2012
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
Nice work, Marcus and Matt. This looks like a great line. Thanks for your contribution! Oct 16, 2012
Ben Kiessel  
 
Great route! Jul 4, 2012
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
This is a superb route. Right up there with the best climbing in Durango. Jul 2, 2012
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.12c
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.12c
It would be a grade harder if you did this climb in one pitch instead of two. That rope would feel heavy on those bouldery moves. Awesome route, Marcus. I can't wait to figure out that 3rd clip. Jun 27, 2012