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Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: David Kozak & Craig Lombard
Page Views: 920 total, 7/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route that has some interesting moves and some stances to place protection. The start can be a little sandy, but quickly improves. Ends at a bolted anchor at a ledge.

Eds. there is a very large, loose flake on this route. Beware!

Location

The route starts around the corner a little left of Apple Cider.

Protection

Standard East A rack.

Photos

Christopher Barlow
  5.10 R
Christopher Barlow  
  5.10 R
The large flake at the top of the stemming section (about halfway up the route) has become very loose. It is visibly flexing and is large enough to do some serious damage if one were to pull it off (think: 1000+ lbs. of rock falling 30 feet). Marcus G. and I both thought it looked/felt way more hollow than it used to, and we both thought it was now in the "pretty scary" level of looseness. There isn't really a way to avoid climbing on it, although using good technique and select holds makes it reasonable. The thing definitely shouldn't have gear behind it. Apr 17, 2012