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Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,107 total, 8/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is actually the second pitch that can be done after Easy To Remember or Texas Sucks . The route climbs one or both of the short, overhanging, finger cracks and continues to the top of the cliff.

Location

Start at the top of either Texas Sucks or Easy To Remember.

Protection

Finger-sized gear.

Photos

YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Any idea who Sweeney is? Possibly Joe Sweeney? Apr 4, 2016
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.11d
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.11d
I've been climbing on this route for years, and I've always used both cracks. I have even seen Marcus Garcia use both cracks, and he is 5'3", so mostly everyone should be able to use both cracks. I climbed this yesterday and was reminded of the huge death shark's fin at the top of the boulder problem. Does everyone use that sharp death block at the top to pull themselves over the top? And I've always clipped the pin and run out the last 25ft to the roof to place a bomber BD 0.3. How do other people protect the last 25ft of obvious chock blocks that are dying to come off the wall? This is a three star route, but the last 25ft of choss does not add stars to this route. Apr 3, 2016
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.11d
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.11d
Funny how the photo of Sam shows him clearly using both cracks... I think he might be all of 5'10" as well :) Apr 21, 2013
Sam Feuerborn
  5.12a/b
Sam Feuerborn  
  5.12a/b
Ok, Kevin, good job on genetics, aha. Did it today, used just the left, and I'd call it maybe 12 a or b. Sick crack, though! Nov 5, 2010
Kevin Hadfield
New Castle, CO
 
Kevin Hadfield   New Castle, CO
 
Really like this climb... did it today... 6'5" wingspan enables the use of both cracks ;) Oh! and I dug the extra 20 ft. Just to max it out. Word. Apr 7, 2010
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
I suppose that if the route had been done in the modern era, it may have stopped at the ledge, but back in the day, it was cool to take a route as far as one could climb- especially if you could get to the top. But if the whole place was developed in the modern era, it would only be a bunch of sport routes, eh? Apr 7, 2010
Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
It's a quality crack for sure. But that's why the anchor should be right after the splitter ledges out, not after another 20 ft of loose 5.8.

I guess what really sucks about this route is the fact that some douchebag chopped the bolts Ian placed going up that stellar looking, green arete. That would've been a classic finish to this sweet line.

Let's forget about Contortionist and rebolt that arete! Apr 6, 2010
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
Climbing well is all about footwork, not wingspan. Sweeney's Special is typically done using both cracks. If you found poor quality on this route, you were probably off route. Mar 31, 2010
Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
"One or both of the short overhanging fingercracks"??? Unless you have a 7 ft wingspan I think you have to pick one or the other. I got on the left one and found it move-for-move harder than stargazer- though a MUCH shorter crux. Great splitter, but too bad the anchor was placed another 20 ft after the quality ends.... Mar 22, 2010
Shaun Reed
Boulder, CO
 
Shaun Reed   Boulder, CO
 
Sweeney's Special is a great extension to Texas Sucks. Belaying beneath Sweeney's may be hazardous to the belayer's health, and a 60m rope will get you safely back down to the ground. Jul 25, 2008