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Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Marcus Garcia
Page Views: 885 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tim Kuss on Apr 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great new route, taking a nice line to the top of the cliff. Bouldery start and continuous techy moves characterize the first pitch. This route pushes the mind a little after the second bolt then turns more moderate for the second pitch. Can be done in one pitch.

Location

This lies right of Apple Cider and crosses Tennis Shoe Traverse. Face climb following seams to a shallow corner and a belay station. The second half follows the shallow corner which becomes a roof and crack system which is followed to the top. Descend from fixed anchor (70m rope).

Protection

The first pitch is all bolts. The second takes some gear with a few bolts.

Photos

Yeah Dylan, I believe it is the first bolted line right of Punta. Most people seam to agree that the first pitch is around .12a. I remember the second pitch was somewhere in the .10+/.11- range? But it's been a few years and a couple hundred beers since I last climbed it. Apr 18, 2012
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
Is this the first bolted line to the right of Punta? If so, what is the rating of P1 (ends with an awkward mantle onto the ledge)? Mar 11, 2012
Marcus garcia
Durango, Co.
Marcus garcia   Durango, Co.
This route was fun putting up ground up style. Aug 22, 2010