Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Erik Clark Durgin
Page Views: 1,767 total · 19/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on Mar 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This was bolted by Marcus Garcia and Gentle Ben Griffin (thanks for lettin' me sleez yer route). This route was named after local soft man, JJ Nockjob. Bouldery and fun climbing for the first 4 boltz leadz to easier climbing in the crack above.

Location

This gangsta-ass line starts 6 feet to the right of Pandora. It goes straight up for the first 2 boltz and than veers hard right (much like my ...) to an undercling jug below the third bolt. After that, follow the crack to the anchors.

Protection

6 boltz including the anchors and a few small nuts and cams for the crack section. We did leave some draws at the anchors for your enjoyment.

Photos

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m-earle
USA
 
m-earle   USA
 
Dear Mountainproject,

I am saddened that you censored Eric's playful simile from his route description. I believe that his description was well within the Mountainproject guidelines for appropriate language and attitude. While I understand the site trying to avoid PG-13 content, the people of this country have fought too hard to gain the right to freedom of speech for this sort of censorship to happen. What are we as Americans if we are not free? What do we have left when our freedom is taken away? Where will you draw the line as to what constitutes appropriate posts on this site? I sincerely hope that Eric's original description be reinstated, along with his right to be an American.

To keep this post relevent to the actual route....

This route is an awesome addition to the recent development of high quality sport routes at East A, and is one of the best at its grade in Durango. Mar 28, 2011
Erik Durgin
  5.12c
Erik Durgin  
  5.12c
God bless 'MERICA! And God bless penis jokes!

Oh yeah, and the routes really fun, too! Mar 29, 2011
Jniz  
And so, another legacy lives on. Legacy of the Nockjob. Let freedom ring. Mar 29, 2011
Erik Durgin
  5.12c
Erik Durgin  
  5.12c
I've got buddies that died face down in the muck so the we could write penis on MP. Whoever censored my route description is a Communist.

That is all Mar 30, 2011
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
I'll get you a penis joke by 3 o'clock this afternoon with nail polish on it. These amateurs.... Apr 13, 2011
Sarah.E
Durango, CO
Sarah.E   Durango, CO
Gross Timmy, you don't put nail polish on that. I can only imagine using nail polish remover and the pain involved. Nov 18, 2012
A hold broke before the third clip, significantly changing the route. Now you climb more straight up after the second and diagonal right. It makes the third quite hard to clip and the fourth impossible. Forcing the line to follow the bolts doesn't make much sense - you avoid good edges and a logical line. It makes sense that we move the third and fourth bolts to the right - we'll ask Eric first though I'm sure he won't mind.

It goes still at 12c - perhaps even 12b. The top is shitty, literally covered in bird shit, but only about 10a. There is decent gear in poor rock, I'd rather not test it, because if it pulls, you could deck if the fourth isn't clipped.

Overall, not a great route, despite some fun moves down low. Dec 9, 2018