The Ole 6
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British WI3 M6-7
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.8406, -105.044 |
| FA: | Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, as a mixed line |
| Page Views: | 5,049 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | erik wellborn on Jan 2, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
"We'll work up a number six on them." The #6 is a excellent mixed/drytool route located on the Corinthian Column of Pike's Peak. Steep and sustained, with a huge roof at the top, this route is not to be missed.
P1) Start with a thin smear of ice up a gully to a nice ledge. 100 feet, WI3.
P2) Climb up the detatched flake on the right side, continue up corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 100 feet, M5.
P3) Ascend a weird, flare-y slot (#5 useful) and climb up easier terrain to belay in a alcove below the roof. 100 feet, M5/6.
P4) Traverse the roof on excellent gear, jams, and hooks with mega air below your feet. Wild! Either belay at the end of the traverse on a nice ledge or continue to the top. M6/7 or 5.11.
The pitches can easily be linked if desired. We just kept running out of gear.
Location
The route is located left of the classic "Total Abandon" on the large buttress. Look for the obvious corner system with the 30 foot roof at the top.
For descent, you can either rap Blind Assumption or scramble up the buttress then walk off right to the highway.



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