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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak

Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, as a mixed line
Page Views: 2,827 total, 47/month
Shared By: erik wellborn on Jan 2, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

"We'll work up a number six on them." The #6 is a excellent mixed/drytool route located on the Corinthian Column of Pike's Peak. Steep and sustained, with a huge roof at the top, this route is not to be missed.

P1) Start with a thin smear of ice up a gully to a nice ledge. 100 feet, WI3.

P2) Climb up the detatched flake on the right side, continue up corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 100 feet, M5.

P3) Ascend a weird, flare-y slot (#5 useful) and climb up easier terrain to belay in a alcove below the roof. 100 feet, M5/6.

P4) Traverse the roof on excellent gear, jams, and hooks with mega air below your feet. Wild! Either belay at the end of the traverse on a nice ledge or continue to the top. M6/7 or 5.11.

The pitches can easily be linked if desired. We just kept running out of gear.

Location

The route is located left of the classic "Total Abandon" on the large buttress. Look for the obvious corner system with the 30 foot roof at the top.

For descent, you can either rap Blind Assumption or scramble up the buttress then walk off right to the highway.

Protection

Doubles to #4. A #5 is useful for the third pitch. Depending on conditions, maybe bring 1 or 2 stubbies.
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nice work, duder! Jan 5, 2013
erik wellborn
manitou springs
 
erik wellborn   manitou springs
 
I asked Mark Hesse about this line. Said he never heard of anyone climbing it. Jan 2, 2013
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
  5.9 WI3 M6+
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
  5.9 WI3 M6+
My new fav line on the Peak, but maybe I'm a little biased. I thought the crux was the off-width section at the start of our 3rd pitch. Jan 2, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11 WI3+ M6+
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11 WI3+ M6+
Not to be missed! If this was in the park, it would be an instant classic! Jan 2, 2013